Summer Gardening and Flowering Plants

It is July, and though the solstice has passed, true summer is bookended by Independence Day and Labor Day, two months’ reward for seemingly six months of winter. Time is set aside for travel, vacation, summer camp, rest and relaxation. However, it is still a good time to garden, despite the old notion that it is too late in the season to plant. Indeed, this used to be true: when plants used to be field-grown for transplanting into a new garden, digging them up in the summer was risky business. Today’s plants, from trees, shrubs and vines to perennials, are grown in containers to make their transition into the ground practically stress-free. While it is true that summer additions to the garden must be watered, it’s equally true for those plants that were put in this past spring. (Please, don’t rely on lawn irrigation systems to do the job for you, unless you have a dedicated drip zone. Lawn irrigation does not water deeper-rooted plants sufficiently.)

The fireworks that light the skies on the Fourth are echoed in the flowers of summer, as July and August are the months of Coneflower (Echinacea) whose large bright daisies burst into dazzling and clean displays of traditional dusky pink (such as the standby cultivar ‘Ruby Star’,) but newer hybrids now offer shaggy mop-headed types such as the orange ‘Marmalade’ and ‘Hot Papaya’. ‘Evan Saul’ (Sundown™) evokes a desert sunset, with bright orange “petals” highlighted with rosy-purple. ‘Green Jewel’ offers cool light green “petals” – a unique color – surrounding a central green cone. Coneflowers are butterfly magnets, and their brown seed heads are prized by finches in late summer and beyond. They all do well in sun to part shade, and are drought-tolerant once established.

We are well-stocked with interesting and well-grown trees and shrubs. Our specimen Stewartia tree planted beside the barn has been flowering since June 20, and is just halfway done blooming, an inspiration for the smaller ones we have ready for planting. Summer-blooming azaleas are hardy, colorful and fragrant, and are superb for planting near a deck, patio or pool, where their sweet scent may be enjoyed in the day or evening. Several varieties are offered, and are in flower now. Buddleias (Butterfly Bushes) are budded and will be opening soon, as will the many types of Clethra (Summersweet) that we carry.

Ornamental grasses are now coming into their own, and will only continue to get bigger and better through the season. Plant them now to enjoy through the fall, as most types need the warm soils of summer to become established before winter.

Astilbe at The Mixed Border

And for the shadier gardens, our Hostas are spectacular, as always. We have on hand over a hundred varieties, from tiny-leaved miniatures such as ‘Baby Booties’ to ‘Empress Wu’, the largest Hosta to date, and with a wide choice in leaf colors and patterns of variegation. Astilbes are coming into flower, and we have a good selection of perennials, wildflowers and ferns for shade.

We welcome your visit.

Nursery Hours, July to September:

Monday: 9:00 am to 5:00 pm
 Thursday through Saturday: 9:00 am to 5:00 pm

Sunday: 10:00 am to 3:00 pm

We are closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, except by prior arrangement.

Please note that in the event of dangerous weather (such as thunderstorms or extreme heat) we may close earlier than scheduled, for everyone’s sake. Please call ahead (603-882-5538) if bad weather is forecast on the day of your visit.

Selecting, Planting and Caring for Peonies

We offer both herbaceous and woody (or tree) forms of peonies. The most familiar garden peonies are the herbaceous types, with showy and colorful flowers in May to June, depending upon the variety. Each blooms for a week or more. They are cut down to the ground each fall and rise again in the spring.

Tree peonies maintain woody stems which bear large leaves that drop in the fall, and their flowers are enormous: often up to ten inches across! These blossoms open and fade all too quickly, especially when grown in afternoon sun (although they need at least ½ day of sun to bloom well.) Thanks to the late breeder Mr. Itoh, there are also many “Itoh” or “intersectional” hybrids now available, which have both an herbaceous and a woody parent. These are some of the finest peonies available, with herbaceous foliage resembling that of their woody parent. Enhanced vigor and a longer bloom period, including varieties with yellow flowers, distinguish them from other peonies.

Peonies in The Mixed Border's garden

Flowers are typically classified as Single, which have showy petals surrounding functional carpels and golden-yellow stamens (reproductive parts); Japanese, with large outer petals and clusters of enlarged anthers sometimes edged in yellow; Semi-double, in which inner petals have formed within the ring of outer petals, and still contain functional reproductive parts; and Doubles, whose stamens and carpels have been transformed into a dense display of petaloids surrounded by the outer petals. With the large number of varieties in cultivation, there is often some overlap of these various forms, but I have tried to keep it simple. The Singles and the Japanese forms will tend to remain upright in flower, while the heavier Doubles may flop under their own weight. Support of these types may be recommended to keep the flowers off the ground; a subtle corset of bamboo canes and garden twine is usually enough. Peonies usually require a couple years to get established after planting to display their full floral qualities. Flower color can be affected by strong sun (fading of deeper colors) or cool weather (white varieties can develop pink tones.)

Most (but not all) peonies are fragrant, with the pink or white doubles usually your best bet for a scent that is typically rose-like. Red peonies, though pretty in the garden, don’t always make the best cut flowers, as their aroma isn’t always desirable. Some tree peonies are mildly lemon-scented.

Peony 'Krinkled White'

How to plant peonies:

As long as the planting site is well-chosen and well-prepared, Peonies will live for many decades with little care. Hybrid peonies perform best with at least a half day of full sun, and excepting tree peonies, more is better. If given the choice, some afternoon shade can help to reduce blooms fading in color or “going by” too quickly.

Well-drained soil is important, as areas which remain wet for periods of time may cause their thick and fleshy roots to rot. Because they are so long-lived, they deserve and need a planting hole that is deep and wide, and contains a good amount of organic matter such as compost. Dig a hole at least the size of a 5-gallon bucket and remove the soil, discarding any sand or gravel and reserving the topsoil or loam. To that, add an equal amount of compost (avoid all but extremely well-aged manure) and a handful of lime and organic fertilizer. Fill the hole with this mixture, such that the plant’s soil surface will be at (or slightly above) the soil level outside the hole. Take care not to place soil on top of the roots, either now or at some future time, as their flower buds will not form if planted too deeply. Mulch very lightly with good compost or a thin layer of shredded bark, and water well.

Do not allow the plant to dry out until well-established (usually within one year.) Peonies are drought-tolerant, but may go dormant early and flower poorly (if at all) the next year if not kept reasonably moist throughout the growing season. Fertilize each spring or fall with organic fertilizer.

Peony 'Sorbet'

Peony problems:

My peony doesn’t flower. Why? Peonies planted too deeply may not flower, nor will those grown in poor soil or shade. Keep the foliage vigorous and healthy.

Some of the leaves and flower stems have wilted and turned brown. Botrytis is a blight disease of peonies that happens most often when the foliage remains moist, sometimes due to rainy weather, or because of overhead irrigation (typically from lawn sprinklers.) Clip off the diseased parts, cleaning your clippers with rubbing alcohol between cuts. Throw the diseased stems in the trash. If needed, an appropriate fungicide may be applied as a preventative (but they rarely are curative.)

Selecting and Caring for Clematis

Clematis are lovely and useful plants for the garden. We offer 3 different types: the familiar twining vines, and the lesser-known shrubby and trailing forms.

• The vines are available as the popular large-flowered hybrids as well as small-flowered hybrids and species. They are typically planted to grow up a lamppost or trellis, but are also attractive when allowed to clamber up a tree or shrub.


• Shrubby clematis are commonly used in the perennial garden, where they offer late-season color. Most have a rather lazy habit, and can be supported using neighboring plants or stakes and twine.


• Trailing clematis are the least known, and are typically either tied to a support such as a mailbox or a lamppost, or given the chance to trail freely through a garden.

Clematis are generally easy to grow, providing that certain conditions are met. First, they usually require at least 1/2 day of sun. Afternoon shade will benefit the blossoms of many clematis, especially those with prominent contrasting “bars” in the flowers. A deep, fertile soil is also needed, which can be prepared by digging a hole at least the size of a 5-gallon bucket, and discarding any poor soil. To the better soil, add an equal quantity of organic matter, such as Coast of Maine™ compost. One-half cup or so each of ground limestone and an organic fertilizer such as Pro-Gro™ is also beneficial. Blend all the ingredients, dump the amended soil back into the hole, and plant the clematis carefully, taking care not to damage brittle stems when securing to a trellis or other support. Good mulch helps to keep the soil cool and moist. Water well, and maintain it as you would any new planting.

Large-flowered clematis are susceptible to a disease known as Clematis Wilt. This disease remains a mystery to gardeners and scientists alike, for it is unknown if it is caused by a fungus, wounding of the stems caused by windy conditions or mishandling, or a phenomenon of the plant being unable to provide enough water to the stems during stressful weather. In any event, it is characterized by a sudden wilting of the leaves starting at the tips of the stems, and progressing downward. Benomyl™, a commercial fungicide, is commonly used to counteract it. Pruning the stems down to healthy growth will often stop the disease, and new stems will usually arise from buds hidden below ground. Clematis Wilt rarely, if ever, will kill clematis; at most flowering may be disappointingly delayed. Please note that The Mixed Border Nursery will not replace any clematis that has been affected by Clematis Wilt.

Pruning clematis is often confusing to the uninitiated. However, once you understand that you will not kill clematis either by pruning it according to the wrong method, or by not pruning it at all, it becomes much easier. Clematis are grouped according to the way they flower, and this governs how they ought to be pruned. If you are unsure what type you have in your garden, observe its flowering habits for a season, and follow the recommendations that most closely match what you have. Except for Group 1 types, all may be cut back severely in spring with at worst a temporary effect on flowering.


Group 1:
These plants flower early on old stems and generally do not need to be pruned, except to remove dead or damaged stems. If pruning is necessary to control growth, cut stems back after flowering.

Examples:
Clematis alpina and varieties
Clematis macrophylla and varieties

Group 2:
These also flower on old wood, but a later flush of flowers happens in late summer on new growth. In early spring before buds have opened, prune out any dead or weak stems, and cut back remaining stems to a pair of buds. The lower down the stems you cut, the more flowering will be delayed. Cutting the stems by half is a good rule of thumb.

Examples:

Clematis ‘Amethyst Beauty’	C. ‘Arctic Queen’	C. ‘Asao’
C. ‘Bee’s Jubilee’	C. ‘Belle of Woking’	C. ‘Blue Ravine’
C. ‘Carnaby’	C. ‘Crystal Fountain’	C. ‘Diana’s Delight’
C. ‘Duchess of Edinburgh’	C. ‘Elsa Spath’	C. ‘Empress’
C. ‘Franziska Maria’	C. ‘Guernsey Cream’	C. ‘Henryi’
C. ‘Isago’	C. ‘Josephine’	C. lanuginosa ‘Candida’
C. ‘Nelly Moser’	C. ‘Niobe’***	C. ‘Perrin’s Pride’
C. ‘Piliu’	C. ‘Proteus’	C. ‘Rebecca’
C. Rhapsody’***	C. ‘Rosemoor’	C. ‘Silver Moon’
C. ‘Sunset’***	C. ‘Sugar Candy’	C. ‘Veronica’s Choice’
C. ‘Vino’	C. ‘Vyvyan Parnell’	C. ‘Warsaw Nike’

Group 3:
Flowers are produced on new stems each year, so vines can be cut down to a pair of buds near the ground in late winter or early spring.
Examples:

Clematis ‘Alionushka’	C. ‘Arabella’	C. ‘Barbara Harrington’
C. ‘Comtesse de Bouchard’	C. ‘Hagley Hybrid’	C. heracleifolia and hybrids: ‘Mrs. Robert Brydon’
C. integrifolia and hybrids	C. ‘Jackmannii Superba’	C. ‘Niobe’***
C. ‘Perle D’Azur’	C. ‘Petite Faucon’	C. recta and varieties
C. ‘Rhapsody’***	C. ‘Roguchi’	C. ‘Rouge Cardinal’
C. tangutica and varieties	C. ternifolia (aka C. paniculata)	C. texensis ‘Duchess of Albany’, ‘Odoriba’, ‘Pagoda’
C. ‘Ville de Lyon’
C. viticella and hybrids:
C. v. ‘Mrs. Betty Corning’	C. v. ‘Etoile Violette’	C. v. ‘Kermesina’
C. v. ‘Polish Spirit’	C. v. ‘Purpurea Plena Elegans’

***Note: these varieties may be pruned according to either Group 2 or Group 3.
Photos courtesy of Donahues Clematis

The Best Hardy Plants for New England

Despite the recent snowstorm, our thoughts have been turning to spring which, according to the calendar, arrives on March 20. True spring weather usually takes a while to catch up to the Equinox, so it will be April at least before the ground is soft and dry enough to plant. Still, just before the snow fell, our Snowdrops were in full flower under the beech tree, and the fat budded blooms of Hellebores had already popped through the unfrozen soil. Once the snow melts, they will resume their awakening to flower in early spring, as they always do. Exotic witch hazels (not the late fall-blooming natives) have been in flower since early February, uncoiling their gold, yellow or orange ribbons on warm days, and retracting them at night. Bringing their cut branches into the house persuades them to release their pleasing perfume.

While we can only enjoy (or imagine) these garden delights (Winter flowers? In New Hampshire? Yes, they are possible, and easy) -- it’s not too soon to start planning.

Let’s face it, choosing ornamental plants can be a daunting task for new homeowners and otherwise inexperienced gardeners looking to landscape their yards. For some, a trip to a well-stocked nursery displaying a wide selection of plants can be as confusing as traveling to another country where people speak a different language and whose culture is unfamiliar. Questions of “Is it hardy?” “Will it do well in my yard?” “How much care do I have to give it?” immediately come to mind. It’s no wonder that one often sees the same plants repeated from one house to another, as though each garden was painted from a common palette. Yews and rhododendrons, arborvitae and azaleas, burning bushes and junipers dominate the planted landscapes of New England, because it’s easiest to repeat what is known.

But repetition isn’t always the best way, especially when repeating mistakes. Most of the more familiar plant choices mentioned above grow too large for the average “foundation” planting, and without regular pruning (which is typically more akin to hacking,) will soon cover up first-floor windows and grow over the walkways. And relying on a limited plant palette leads to boringly similar yards.

Better nurseries will have well-trained staff to assist in the process of selecting the right plant for the location, as well as helpful signage and tags. Experienced garden designers are familiar with a much broader range of plants, and know which will not only do best, but also perform and look well with little maintenance, and will arrange them in a distinctive fashion.

Another resource for New England gardeners is to seek out the list of Cary Award-winning plants. The Cary Award program (www.CaryAward.org, a non-profit entity established and administered by the Worcester County Horticultural Society) is bestowed upon hardy woody plants that meet certain criteria: they must be hardy to at least 2 of New England’s Hardiness Zones (but are generally hardy to at least Zone 5 if not colder;) they must offer more than a single season of beauty with an emphasis on having good winter interest; they must have qualities of sustainability (i.e., be easy to grow, not require chemical pest management, and not represent a threat to native flora;) and they must be readily available. Some of them are “problem solving” plants for difficult areas.

This year’s winners of the Cary Award include a low-maintenance rose – Rosa ‘Knock Out’ and the native Yucca filamentosa or Adams Needle, joining 43 trees, shrubs, vines and ground covers that have previously been honored since 1997. A complete list, including information about and photos of individual winners can be found at www.caryaward.org. (Full disclosure: I have been a member of the Cary Award selection committee for many years as one of New Hampshire’s two representatives. Each New England state is similarly represented by professional horticulturists.) We have named future selections up to 2016, with each year’s winners announced at the appropriate time, and are working on plants to nominate and name for 2017 and beyond. Nominations may be made by anybody, and are not limited to those of the committee.

When considering which plants to replace those that may have been damaged in last year’s Halloween snowstorm, or which to choose to enhance your home or garden, be sure to start with Cary Award winners – proven for hardiness, reliability, ease and extended beauty.

Native Plants and Others

It’s common knowledge that the state tree of New Hampshire is the white or paper birch (Betula papyrifera) while its state flower is the purple lilac (Syringa vulgaris.) The birch, venerated for its white bark and flexible but resilient “bend but don’t break” manner, is a hardy native, and one which stands out year round. The lilac, on the other hand, is decidedly “not from around here”, but rather an exotic species of southeastern European origin, having been brought by early settlers to Portsmouth, NH and then distributed far and wide. Despite its having existed in North America for over 300 years, it will never be a native, even though it has become naturalized (a term which is applied to both plants and people. In a way, most of us are all naturalized citizens.)  Its presence is often only revealed in spring, when its fragrant and familiar blossoms betray its position, one which once probably began in the dooryard of a colonial home long gone, its cellar hole a vestige of time past, as suggested by Robert Frost (another non-native – he was born in California) writes in his poem “Directive”:

...for the house that is no more a house,

But only a belilaced cellar hole,

Now slowly closing like a dent in dough. 

Lilacs, courtesy of April Walker

I compare the birch and lilac because they represent more than the official state flower and tree. They also illustrate the problem with declaring natives more suitable than exotics in the landscape.

Native plants (the definition of which varies, but typically used to describe those which were here before European colonization – but that is also problematic, as there were trees growing millions of years ago on this continent which are only found today in Asia) are thought to be better choices for the landscape, requiring less water and other care than exotics. There are plenty of Japanese Barberries, Norway Maples, Burning Bushes, and other plants which have escaped from cultivation and are now considered invasive species to disprove the thesis.

Let me state that I am a firm believer in the value of native plants, appreciate their beauty and status in the wild, and am a dedicated advocate for their use in managed landscapes whenever appropriate. Given the choice between a native and an exotic, I will typically opt for the former. However, as shown in the above example, exotics also have their place, so long as they don’t spread so aggressively as to displace native plants which have evolved along with native wildlife to their mutual benefit.

Drive down a country road when lilacs are in bloom, and you are likely to see lilacs growing as described by Frost, Whitman and others, an enduring and endearing shrub which has become an archetype many homeowners can’t live without in their gardens, despite its brief display. The white birch, on the other hand, is easy to spot at any time, but much harder to grow. It prefers cool, moist soil, and suffers when affected by drought. Indeed, its major nemesis is an insect called the Bronze Birch Borer which is able to detect a chemical signal emitted by birches under stress, and in which she lays her eggs which hatch and spell doom for the tree.

A similar example can be found with dogwoods: the native flowering dogwood (Cornus florida) is susceptible to another form of borer, as well as a destructive disease, when not grown under the right conditions. The exotic Kousa dogwood (Cornus kousa) is resistant to both, and is often the better choice. Hybrids between the 2 species (the so-called Rutgers types) have been produced which offer the best of both.

Clearly, the discussion of whether native plants are superior is complicated. Natives usually offer wildlife more value, and their presence in natural settings is critically important. However, it bears notice that natives may not always work well in managed landscapes, and appropriate choices may be found in plants which may not have originated here.

Azalea or Rhododendron?

Forsythias, those cheerful harbingers of spring (but certainly not the first woody plants to bloom) are completing their annual gaudy display, and as they fade into their seasonal greenness, our eyes fall upon the bright mauve-purple blossoms seemingly as common as Forsythia – the PJMs. These rugged evergreens with smallish oval-shaped leaves are thought of by many as azaleas, but they are not. They are Rhododendrons.

It is easy to understand the confusion, because they are related. All azaleas are Rhododendrons, but not all Rhododendrons are azaleas (they are botanically differentiated by the number of stamens each flower carries: azaleas have five, while Rhododendrons bear ten or more.) And azaleas are grouped within the genus Rhododendron, and part of the larger heath family which also includes heathers, blueberries and cranberries, mountain laurels, and more – all prefer cool, moist acidic soil, so mulches are always helpful (see my previous article.) Rhododendrons (not azaleas) can be divided into 2 categories: large-leaved and small-leaved types, and the PJM belongs to the latter group. Generally speaking, those with large leaves prefer some shade, although they flower better if given at least 1/2 day of sun, and the small-leaved Rhododendrons perform best in full sun, but tolerate some shade.

Those familiar with azaleas know them to bear bright red, pink, purple or white flowers on spreading bushes that remain semi-evergreen in the winter. These types perform better in more southerly locations, but can be found locally each spring when in bloom. They generally need careful siting to prevent the crisping of their foliage in our cold and dry winter air. Deciduous azaleas are far more reliable, and have a much greater range of flower color – from white to yellow, orange to red, but no blue or purple. And rather than having the narrow bloom times of the semi-evergreen varieties, by choosing different deciduous types, one can have flowers from April to August.

Rhododendron ‘PJM’ was hybridized in the 1930’s by the late Ed Mezitt of Weston Nurseries in Massachusetts, and he named it after the initial letters of his father, who founded the nursery. This fortuitous marriage of an Asian species and an American native has become the benchmark of hardy rhododendrons, and it is very hardy. It is also quite easy to grow, thriving in full sun to part shade. Its only downfall is soggy soil, as it leads to root rot. Indeed, its ease of growth has made it as common as lilac and forsythia in the northeast, and combines well with some Magnolias which bloom at the same time.

Because its purply color can be a bit jarring in the landscape, Ed Mezitt continued to breed rhododendrons in search of calmer pinks and whites, but also a true red (which he never achieved in his small-leaved hybrids, but came close with ‘Landmark’, one of my favorites.) The varieties ‘Olga Mezitt’ and ‘Aglo’ (Olga spelled backwards) are nearly as popular as the PJM, and bloom about a week or so later, nearly in concert with crabtrees. Their showy flowers are a clearer pink, but their habit is a bit more “open” than the denser ‘PJM’. These varieties, as well as many others including ‘PJM’ have deep green foliage that is aromatic when brushed against, and which turns dark bronze to mahogany when the colder weather arrives in the fall.

Mezitt’s breeding work also included azaleas, and he used the rich palette of deciduous species native to New England and the Northeast in his work, as well as a hardy semi-evergreen species from Korea. The deciduous hybrids are outstanding, because most bloom in early to mid-summer. (A future article will cover these superb “Summer Blooming Azaleas.”) Further reasons to grow these types: they are often sweetly fragrant, and many have vivid fall foliage, extending their season of beauty. Although his semi-evergreen introductions are less well-known (and hence not easy to find,) they generally perform better in central New England than those more commonly available, because that is where they were bred and tested.

Large-leaved Rhododendrons will soon be blooming in May. Although there are hundreds of varieties hardy for our area, most nurseries and garden centers stock relatively few. Because they are frequently used as “foundation plants”, it’s best to look for varieties which remain naturally compact, rather than dealing with green monsters which can quickly swallow up a window. Look for a discussion in an upcoming issue of some of the lesser-known varieties which I consider to be better in many respects from the traditional offerings.

Much Too Much Mulch

It’s officially Spring (after the winter that never was.) Gardeners and landscapers alike have been spreading mulches of shredded bark and/or wood chips around trees and shrubs and over emerging perennials, an annual event as regular as the swallows returning to Capistrano. Unfortunately, eruptions of mulch “volcanoes” are more predictable than the real things, as they are found an nearly every street and in every neighborhood. More about these in just a moment.

The widespread us of mulches is a relatively new phenomenon – shredded bark, which is removed from logs prior to their being milled or processed into pulp, was considered waste until the late ‘60’s or early ‘70’s, and it accumulated in massive piles surrounding lumber mills. If gardeners mulched at all, it was usually with peat moss, a less than perfect option for many reasons. Sometimes grass clippings would be used, or perhaps composted leaves.

Eventually though, a use for those piles of slowly decomposing bark was found, and a huge market was created – bark mulch. Because today’s log de-barking machines are even more efficient, it’s inevitable that some wood ends up in the mix, so bark mulch is less pure than it used to be. Somewhere along the way, an entrepreneur decided that inferior wood, old pallets, construction debris and the like (with no bark at all) could be chipped and ground up into small pieces, colored with dyes (brown, black, or red) and then sold as “bark” mulch. This product is inferior to the real thing, and should actually be called “colored wood chips”.

Using organic mulches (I’m leaving aside stone mulches for the moment) have many benefits, if properly applied. They help to modulate soil temperatures in cold or warm weather and slow down the evaporation of soil moisture. They help prevent soil-borne weed seeds from sprouting (but serve as a good incubator for those that land on the surface.) By offering themselves up as a food source, they help foster a healthy community of microbes which break them down by composting them into less complex substances that are released to the soil, increasing its nutrient and organic content as well as its tilth. Earthworms and other organisms are good recyclers of soil organic matter, which benefit plants even more. Further, microbes also become intimately associated with root hairs in the soil, and form an immense extension of a plant’s root system. Many plants cannot exist without these microbial populations.

However, if improperly applied, mulch can lead to plant distress or death. Over the past few years I have come to find that overmulching is a leading cause of plant death – especially of perennials. If you are applying more mulch yearly than is being broken down by the natural decomposition process, you are applying too much. Try to maintain an even layer about 2- or 3-inches thick from year to year. When mulches approach 4-inches in depth or more, they can actually repel water and reverse one of the benefits of mulch. If the surface needs to be refreshed, a very thin layer (sufficient to barely cover the ground and no more) may be spread, and never over the tops of perennials, for it can smother them over time.

Back to mulch volcanoes, those tall mounds of mulch around the trunks of trees and even shrubs. Where they originated is anybody’s guess, but the practice continues to be spread by uninformed landscapers as well as homeowners. Why are they bad? Bark respires by exchanging oxygen and carbon dioxide, and as mulches tend to hold excess moisture, they interfere with this respiration if piled against the trunk. Another consequence is the development of tree diseases which are favored in moist conditions. Follow nature’s model: walk through any forest, and you will not see the decaying leaf litter up against tree trunks. The natural flare of the trunk is clearly visible, and should be around your own trees as well.

As to what sort of mulch to use, I prefer the true aged (or partially composted) darker mulches, which have a softer and finer texture than more freshly-ground bark. I also like the dark color, as it resembles the color of soil and shows plants off well against it. I avoid the use of any mulches which are basically chipped and colored wood chunks – and especially those that are dyed red or orange to resemble true hemlock mulch (which, when fresh, is reddish, and is hardly ever available anymore.) I find this color disturbing in the landscape, but that is a personal preference.

I also like to use pine needles, shredded leaves and even compost in the garden whenever available. These are freely available and beneficial to the soil (and pine needles do not increase its acidity, despite popular belief.) “Weed barrier” fabrics do nothing to control the spread of weeds that originate from wind-blown seeds, and inhibit the growth and spread of desirable plants, particularly ground covers.

In any case, mulches should not be a dominant garden theme, but a helpful solution to make gardening easier while improving the soil at the same time. Vast barrens of bark mulch are often created and maintained, but do nothing to enhance the landscape. Even a meager lawn can look better, with scarcely more time needed to manage it. Dense plantings of shrubs, perennials and ground covers, topped with a light layer of organic mulch every other year or so, will require little mulch and maintenance over time – the best combination of beauty and function for today’s gardeners of whatever ability.

What’s My Zone?

Gardeners and attentive news followers may know by now that the USDA has just released an update of the Plant Hardiness Zone Map, and to nobody’s surprise, New Hampshire is getting warmer, with the current “winter” adding to the accumulating evidence.

Hardiness zones are typically used to determine which plants will grow in a given area, and are displayed on the map of North America as broad colorful strokes depicting the average lowest temperature likely to be experienced each winter. Each zone is given a number, with lower digits representing colder regions, and vice versa, and the zones are in 10 degree F. increments. Each is further broken down into subranges “a” or “b” – thus, “USDA Zone 5” indicates average minimum winter temps of -10 to -20 degrees F; “5a” is -20 to -15, and “5b” being -15 to -10 degrees F. In the warmest parts of the U.S., it’s not the cold that is a limiting factor: it’s the heat, and heat zone maps have been created for those areas that will never experience a snowflake, or black ice.

The last version of the Plant Hardiness Zone Map was issued in 1990, and was based upon 12 years of meteorological data. Creators of the 2012 map were able to use the latest in computing technology to compile 30 years of readings from more measurement sites into an interactive tool that is much more detailed. When compared to the 1990 map, it is clear that warmer zones have been creeping northward, and that is also true in New Hampshire. However, some of the changes can be attributed to the additional data and computational ability, and the USDA makes no claims about the influence of planetary warming leading to climate change.


Gardeners can be a quirky bunch, often conversing in botanical Latin and using the Zone Map as part of their identity, as in, “I’m a solid Zone 5b” (meaning average minimum temperatures of -10 to -15 degrees F.) Importantly, these temperature ranges refer to ambient air and not to wind chill temperatures, which only apply to exposed human skin. I am often asked to offer plant recommendations for “my Zone 4a (-25 to -30 degrees F.) garden in Amherst”, or some other southern New Hampshire location. In fact, most of the lower half of the state lies in Zone 5a or 5b, with the extreme southeasterly portion enjoying Zone 6 (0 to -10 degrees F.) winters. That the Seacoast is milder is unsurprising, but the new map shows large scattered blocks of western New Hampshire, from south of Keene to north of New London as also being in Zone 6a. This should come as welcome news to gardeners in those areas, with a larger palette of plants they can now try.

Gardening books, plant tags and catalogs typically provide the hardiness range of a given plant, assisting the reader when deciding whether she can grow it. However, these zones, while extremely helpful, are more of a guide than a rule – there are other factors which come into play: winter sun exposure (although counterintuitive, less winter sun, especially in the afternoon, is often better for some evergreens), the amount of snow cover (more is usually better, as snow is an insulator,) plant vigor, and the microclimate – or the immediate vicinity of the plant’s intended location – is it sheltered? Does it retain the sun’s warmth into the evening? And lastly, how wet the soil is in winter – plants that do quite well in a cold yet arid climate for instance, the high desert – often perish in our icy mud.

Part of the fun in gardening is pushing the limits of what plants can be grown successfully. Northern gardeners are eager to try more tender species, while those in the south – especially snowbirds, may attempt plants that require more cold to survive. Despite our typically cold winters, we in central New England can grow an astonishing variety of plants, but our warm and humid summers often prevent success with those species happier in the more temperate climes of England or maritime Canada. Which means that we are far more likely to succeed with growing ornamental bananas and gingers rather than the holy grail of many local gardeners: stunningly perfect spires of 6-foot tall delphiniums.

Not that the bananas and gingers will make it through our winters, at least according to the new hardiness zone map.

Hazels and Hellebores – the Flowers of Early Spring

Winter can seem interminable to the New England gardener, with the possibility of snow from October to April. By March, we are desperate to see the inky brushstrokes of branches against the white sheet of snow become transformed into the verdant watercolor that is spring. We long for green. We long for flowers.


Hamamelis intermedia 'Pallida'

For those who think that Forsythias and crocuses are the floral harbingers of spring, they are late to the party. Witch Hazels (Hamamelis) have been blooming in our gardens since the end of February, and will continue for weeks to come. They are the earliest woody plants to bloom where they are hardy (USDA Zone 5). Although of exotic origin, they are related to our native Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana), which unfurls its pale yellow ribbon-like petals in October and November.

The spring-bloomers are ornamentally superior to the native Witch Hazel. Their flowers are far showier, and hybridization has resulted in colors ranging from soft yellow to brassier tones, and even orangey-reds. Most are fragrant, adding to their charm, and an armload of branches brought into the house will scent the air with sweetness. The variety ‘Arnold’s Promise’ has long been my favorite, with its bright lemony-yellow blossoms.


Hamamelis intermedia 'Pallida' flowering with snow still on the ground

Whether in bloom or in size, these are not timid shrubs. They’ll flower dependably, beginning in late February or early March, even in the snow. Each year they’ll grow larger, eventually reaching twenty feet or more in height, with a wide spread. I think they are excellent choices for a sunny corner of the house, or at the edge of a woodland garden, as Witch Hazels can tolerate a little shade. Plant some Snowdrop bulbs (Galanthus) beneath one in the fall, and you will be rewarded with your own flower show each year.


Corylopsis spicata 'Golden Spring' in bloom

Forsythias can be troublesome shrubs, as they often grow ungainly without proper pruning. A better choice might be Winter Hazel (Corylopsis spicata), which as I write this in late March, is just coming into bloom. The flowers are a lovely shade of soft yellow, and are carried on stems that are much more elegant than the common Forsythia. Although reported to be hardy only to Zone 6, we have been growing Winter Hazel in our Zone 5 gardens for the past 20 years with little or no winter damage. The pleated, bluish-green leaves remain attractive all season. We have a chartreuse-foliaged one planted in our garden (C. spicata ‘Golden Spring’,) and hope to offer this variety for sale soon. All benefit from a little shade, especially in the afternoon.


Hellebore hybrid

Lenten Rose, or Hellebore (Helleborus), have long been appreciated in Europe for their early blooms that defy cold weather. Over recent years, they have gained a following in the US, and there has been much breeding work done to produce a virtual rainbow of colors and “doubled” flowers. Our Hellebores started to emerge from the ground once the snow melted, and a week of unusually mild weather has brought their flowering stalks to attention, while catching ours. If snow were to fall on them, it’s no matter, as they will patiently wait for it to melt and reveal their long-lasting blooms. Placing Hellebores under a deciduous tree or shrub will give them sun early in the season, and shade later. The foliage is leathery yet quite handsome, and effective all season. I like to clip off last year’s foliage in the early spring, to give room for the new shoots.


Helleborus 'Blue Lady'

It’s little wonder why these superb plants are rarely seen in gardens. Often, they have finished blooming before gardeners seeking springtime cheer are visiting nurseries – all the more reason to do some homework before making a plant purchase, rather than buying what’s in flower. To have four-season interest in your garden requires planning, and patience. To quote W. E. Johns, “One of the most delightful things about a garden is the anticipation it provides.”


Helleborus 'White Spotted Lady'

Fall: The World’s a Stage

“Hardy” mums. I just don’t get them.

Rather, I don’t understand why people continue to plant them, when there are better choices for the fall garden (more about those in a moment.) Sure, they’re colorful: bright beacons of hope that perhaps the frost-free days of early autumn will last a bit longer. But these beacons are often as subtle as airport landing lights – unblinking yellow or white gobs that fairly scream, “Look at me!!!” when the brilliant harmonic tones of the maple, the birch and the sumac – the symphony of the season -- is reaching its colorful crescendo before falling to the ground in a whisper.

The calmer pinks, bronzes and oranges of mums are hardly better, as each plant is pinched and squeezed by the grower into a perfect pompom of flowers with no greenery to dilute the effect; an unnatural natural object in the landscape. And the term “hardy mum” is a bit of a misnomer, as these highly bred beauties are no match for a heavy frost which withers their blooms, or for our cold winters, which usually are fatal.

Consider in their place plants which reliably return each year to offer colorful drama without the harsh stage light effects. One that I feature often is an Aster called ‘Raydon’s Favorite’ (Aster oblongifolius ‘Raydon’s Favorite’), with its cheerful bright blue daisies in September and October. Unlike many, perhaps more familiar asters, ‘Raydon’s Favorite’ remains dense and bushy without losing its foliage to disease. It likes full sun, and tolerates drought once established.


Raydon’s Favorite

I particularly like to use it as a companion to ornamental grasses, most of which achieve glory in October. Even after a heavy frost has dealt a crushing blow to many perennials, grasses such as Miscanthus (with its many varieties) are at their peak, carrying silvery plumes above the graceful clumps of foliage. The onset of winter causes the stalks and stems to turn tawny, but they are sturdy enough to shrug off winter snows to provide a quiet presence in the barren landscape. Other ornamental grasses such Switch Grass (Panicum), Bluestem (Andropogon), Fountain Grass (Pennisetum), Indian Grass (Sorghastrum), and many others, continue to please into the fall.


Miscanthus in fall

Threadleaf (or Arkansas) Bluestar (Amsonia hubrichtii) is a simple yet attractive plant with 3 seasons of interest. They bear small blue starry flowers in spring, and by summer have become durable low bushes of long, thin leaves arranged on willowy stems. Perhaps the best is saved for last, as in September the green becomes chartreuse, and eventually golden by October: a perennial with fall foliage. These are best planted en masse, and combine well with bolder- leaved plants to create a contrast of textures, the fundamental way to develop garden interest. Plants for such supporting roles must include Alum Root, or Heuchera, which is not the old-fashioned Coral Bells of your Grandmother’s garden. Today’s Heucheras have been hybridized to offer stunning foliage in a wide variety of colors including lime, chartreuse, peach, burgundy, purple, and near-black. Cold weather often brings out secondary colors and overlays of red or silver.


Amsonia hubrichtii in fall


Heucheras

Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Goldsturm’) have been out of flower for a few weeks now, but their chocolate cones are a food source to gold and purple finches which will feast on the black seeds until winter. There is a longer blooming variety known as fulgida, still in bloom now with fine bright yellow daisies. Surely these are better than mums! Allow the seedheads to remain on Black-eyed Susans: the birds will benefit, as will anyone who is able to appreciate their blackened skeletons outlined against the snow. For while it is easy to savor the bravura spectacle that surrounds us now, we must find joy in the far subtler qualities of the garden in winter, long after its notes have faded.


Black-eyed Susans

Planning a New Landscape

Home landscapes, whether old or new, are rarely designed or planted with the active lifestyles of today’s homeowners in mind. The same mistakes get repeated, as large-growing plants -- yews, rhododendrons, arborvitae and others -- are installed too closely together, leading to crowding and the need for regular clipping to prevent windows and walkways from being covered in green. It seems that homeowners today have little time to maintain their plantings, and lack the skills to properly prune them, rather than shear and shape into 3-D forms. (The latter can also be said of many landscape contractors.) Such static plantings offer little seasonal change and limited flowering.

In today’s sluggish real estate market, increasing the visual appeal of your home can become a strong selling point now or later. Consider removing overgrown shrubbery and starting afresh with a new palette of plants which will offer reduced maintenance and greater beauty to enhance your home through all four seasons. Include a colorful and diverse blend of small ornamental trees, deciduous shrubs, rhododendrons and mountain laurels hybridized to remain compact, dwarf conifers which rarely require pruning, and season-extending perennials that serve as ground covers to reduce weeding.

These so-called “mixed borders” can be more complex to design, and may require the guidance of professionals. Your local nursery or garden center may be able to provide free or fee-based plans if you bring a scaled drawing of the area to be planted showing the house footprint, walks and other features, entrances and windows (including sill heights.) Be sure to note north, and how much shade the area will receive. Photographs are always helpful.

Better yet, seek experienced garden designers who will visit your home and create a plan for you. The Association of Professional Landscape Designers has an online member list, including those who have become certified by demonstrating professionalism and proficiency. The New Hampshire Landscape Association is another source of landscape contractors and designers.

This article originally appeared in the September 23, 2008 edition of the Amherst Citizen.

Burning Bushes and Fall Garden Color

Ah, September in New England, my favorite month. Cool, dewy nights melt into morning under the warming sun, its rays splashed against an azure sky. Along roadsides and in unmown meadows the brassy yellow of Goldenrod is untarnished, still gaudy yet not out of place among the clumps of restless grasses swaying in the breeze. And in the distance can be seen the early scarlets and oranges of fall, flaming heralds promising the natural, transcendent glory that is October in New England.

And it’s to October we look ahead in our gardens and landscapes, as Burning bushes (Euonymus alatus and varieties) begin to display their sole reason to grow them: brilliant carmine foliage. Two weeks of Technicolor, and fifty weeks of humdrum.

Such ephemeral beauty doesn’t come without a price, however. To produce the color that inspired its common name, Burning bush requires sun, good soil and plenty of water. Lacking one or more of these, the plant will sulk and disappoint you with pale green leaves all summer, which become a lackluster pink before dropping to the ground. A greater cost is to the local environment, as it has been determined that Burning bush is an invasive species (commonly defined as a plant of exotic origin which has aggressively spread beyond cultivation and displaces native vegetation.) In short, Burning bush is a known thug, and has been prohibited from sale in New Hampshire and several other states.

So, what’s a gardener to do?

First, if you have Burning bush in your yard, the choice of whether to keep or remove it is up to you: there is no squad of Plant Police. That said, it certainly is sensible to remove seedlings that may have arisen elsewhere on your property, at the very least.

Second, there are several alternatives to Burning bush, and they are superior, as they offer multiple seasons of interest as well as being native. None will approach the final size of Burning bush (even the “dwarf” variety of which will become a 10 or 12 foot globe,) and the fruiting forms will attract birds.

Here are a few:

Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia ‘Brilliantissima’) A native shrub, growing 6 to 8 feet tall, with clusters of pure white flowers in spring followed by glossy red berries later in the summer. The berries are edible but astringent, an aspect which yields its common name. Fall foliage is spectacular – a fiery scarlet. Preserves can be made from the fruit which is loaded with Vitamin C and antioxidants.



Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa ‘Hugin’) Also native, and similar to Red Chokeberry, but bearing inky berries on shrubs that rarely grow above 6 feet tall. Excellent fall foliage.

Diablo Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Diablo’) A superb purple-leaved selection of the native ninebark shrub, becoming reddish-orange in autumn. Handsome burgundy-tinted white button flowers in late spring. To 8 feet tall.

Blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum and hybrids) Spring flowers, tasty summer fruit, and incredible vivid scarlet leaves in the fall – what more can you ask for? Blueberries are deserving of space in the home landscape for their gustatory as well as ornamental attributes. The Lowbush blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium) offers itself as a good ground cover, with the same features. Both are native.

Witherod (Viburnum cassinoides) Another splendid, if underused, native shrub, with fantastic fall foliage that leans toward brilliant red adorning hardy bushes rarely growing over 6 feet tall. Add that to the creamy white flowers in spring which become multicolored berries by summer, and you’ll forget about Burning bush. And the same qualities can be given to the closely related Possomhaw, Viburnum nudum ‘Winterthur’.

A few exotic (but decidedly non-invasive) options:

Paperbark maple (Acer griseum) Growing to twenty-five feet tall, more or less, with excellent red to orange fall foliage. Named for its exfoliating, cinnamon-colored bark which provides year-round interest, but particularly in the winter.

Japanese maple (Acer palmatum and varieties) Most commonly found in its burgundy-leaved forms which offer stunning fall tones of red and orange, but even the green-leaved types can transmute into exquisite cerise hues that rival rubies. Growth heights from six to twenty feet.

Red-veined Enkianthus (Enkianthus campanulatus and varieties) Fall foliage is variably red and orange, but can include purple tones. Lovely dangling bell-shaped flowers in spring. Although capable of growing large, it rarely seems to exceed 10 feet tall in New Hampshire, slowly developing a picturesque branching habit. Of Asian origin.

Any of these shrubs can be safely planted until about the middle of October. They, and many others not mentioned, will do more than simply light up your fall garden. They will delight you throughout the year.

Zoned Out

I have lived in southern New Hampshire all of my life (well, so far at least), and recall cold winters, mild winters, and those that fall somewhere in between. Although a rare occurrence, I do remember low temperatures on bitterly cold January nights dropping in the mid-teens below zero (that's about -26 degrees C, for you of the Metric persuasion.) More typical is the winter when the lowest it's apt to get is around -10 degrees F, but, again, it can get colder. (And let's not even talk about wind chill.)

I bring this up because I recently read that the Arbor Day Foundation has re-scaled the USDA Hardiness Zone Maps, and that southern New Hampshire, like most of the US, has gone up a zone of hardiness, in our case from USDA Zone 5 (minimum -20 degrees F.) to USDA Zone 6 (minimum -10 degrees F.) These maps are generated by the USDA, and are supposed to be updated every 15 years. The last one was done in 1990, so we should be due for another one in 2005. (Wait a minute, isn't this 2007? Well, I'm sure those folks at the USDA have better things to do, such as helping "dole" out advice for the banana orchards and pineapple plantations that are sure to be springing up across the country.) The Arbor Day Foundation took the same data that the USDA uses, and produced this new map:



Is the climate truly changing? Who knows. Evidence seems to be leaning that way, especially given the recent U.N. report on the subject. It's true that this has been an unusually mild winter in New England, as have most of the recent ones been. It was warmer on Christmas (45 degrees F) than it was on Easter (40 degrees F), and on January 6th we hit 69 degrees!

It's interesting, though, to listen to shoppers who come into The Mixed Border and ask for plants that are hardy to at least USDA Zone 4 (minimum -30 degrees F), and who live mere miles away. They cite previous problems with plants not surviving our winters, and suggest they live in a particularly cold spot. In truth, the reason their plants may not survive the winter may have less to do with how cold it gets, but how warm it was before it turned cold. In other words, having a prolonged warm fall, with nighttime temperatures that remain above freezing through November and into December, can be injurious, and sometimes fatal, to plants that are otherwise hardy. Dormancy is delayed as these plants are often the victims of a cruel deception, carried out by a capricious climate that pays the calendar no heed. For no matter how mild the fall and early winter, the icy hammer will surely be swept down from the north, carried in a frozen, unforgiving grip. Just a bit later than normal, and a hardiness zone milder.

And here we are, in early April, less than a week after the most recent storm that laid down a half a foot of slushy crisco snow over the unsuspecting snowdrops and crocuses, not to mention the pots of plants that we just uncovered from their protective winter blankets. We have had more snow in March and April than we had from November through February, and more is forecast for Thursday. With Opening Day at the nursery just 2 weeks away and counting, we are behind in our preparations, but are as eager as every other gardener to see something green.

About The Mixed Border

This following article originally appeared in The Plantsman August/September 2006

The Mixed Border Nursery and Gardens is owned by Doug and Kathy Gagne, a husband and wife team with a wealth of experience in plants and business management. The tranquil nursery they’ve built from the ground up is a tremendous accomplishment. While they are just a few miles off Rt. 101 A and the Everett Turnpike in Hollis, visitors experience only peace and quiet as they stroll through their display gardens. The nursery is enveloped in a completely natural setting and this character is remarkable when weighed against the heavy commercial and residential development that is in close proximity.

Doug says, “We have worked hard to create a nursery that is comfortable and inviting. We encourage people to wander and shop at their own pace.”

Over the years, they’ve expanded every aspect of their operation including the number of full-time employees, the gardens, and the plant list. The business began on a much smaller scale. In 1984, Doug erected a barn and established a small nursery to supply his fledgling landscape design company. “The nursery was an add-on to my landscape business so I could raise some plants I couldn’t get elsewhere, and have them in the sizes I needed,” Doug says. He opened for business with a barn, and just two display gardens.



In the early years, The Mixed Border was a sole proprietorship with Doug at the helm, and Kathy working in the corporate world elsewhere. Kathy joined the business full-time in 1997. While there are many areas that overlap. Kathy’s focus is chiefly managing the nursery and retail sales. In addition to his plant production and selection responsibilities, Doug manages a landscape design/build crew, and presents design plans to customers.

To accommodate the ever-growing plan list offered at The Mixed Border, new areas have been developed for retail sales. Now their nursery includes a shade structure to feature perennials recommended for shady or woodland areas. Landscape cloth is stretched throughout the retail sales area to suppress weed growth. On a daily basis, the landscape cloth is swept to maintain a clean and orderly sales area. All plants offered for sale are sold in containers ranging from 1 quart to three gallon. Typically, the daylilies and hostas would be offered in the large 3-gallon size. The majority are sold in the 3 quart size to 1 gallon containers.

The inventory today features over 1,000 varieties of perennials, more than 200 varieties of woody plants, and some specialty annuals. Doug says, “There are at least four other businesses in the area that are heavy into annuals, so we’re not into this as much.”

To carve out their own marketing niche, Doug says, “We offer plants that you won’t always find at other places. When you have a fixed amount of retail space, you have to make smart choices about your plant list.”

Some of the eye-catching varieties offered at The Mixed Border include a perennial geranium variety named ‘Espresso’. This unique Cranesbill features chocolate brown foliage with a white flower. Customers will find up to 36 varieties of perennial geraniums, along with up to 12 varieties of Echinacea. Doug says, “I’ve always been a plant freak. I enjoy seeking out new varieties.” He admits being partial to variegated cultivars and dwarf conifers.

Kathy adds, “People seemed pleased to hear that of 12 Echinacea we offer, half of them are new introductions. This satisfies their desire for something unique.”

But experience has taught them to achieve a reasonable balance between the old and the new. “We keep the tried and true varieties like Echinacea ‘Magnus’ and Rudbeckias well stocked because they are solid performers and still in demand,” says Kathy.

Doug adds, “When you feature a lot of new material, the burden is on you to educate gardeners about their growth habits and flowering characteristics. Display gardens go a long way to help in this area.” The display gardens represent a “living catalog” where customers can view full-grown example of a wide array of plants.

Doug’s background in plants includes a solid blend of horticultural education and green industry experience. He graduated from UNH with a degree in Plant Science and immediately joined Weston Nurseries in Hopkinton, MA. He worked there for six years after leaving UNH, splitting his time between the garden center and wholesale division. Eventually, the challenge of owning his own business won him over and he left to begin his nursery and landscape design business.

Two areas of the business have been customized to fit their location exactly. The first is a plan to insure an adequate supply of water. Drilled wells in this area of Hollis are not high-yielding, so up to three wells are needed to nourish the plants. Moisture of course hasn’t been an issue this year, but in a drought, sufficient water can be a concern. The third well is used seasonally as needed.

At The Mixed Border all growing media is mixed on-site. Doug says, “We don’t have enough room to bring in a large trailer-truck of soil mix.” Five years ago he purchased a soil mixer and now mixes up about 150 cubic yards each year. Bark, peat, sand, and a perlite mix represent the core ingredients of their growing media.

In early March, a potting shed is a hub of activity to pot up young plants, make divisions, or take cuttings from mature plants. Two greenhouses provide space for the on-site plant production work.

In recent years, Doug and Kathy have seen their customer base expand. They draw customers from the Monadnock area to the west, from Massachusetts, and from surrounding NH communities. They purchase some advertising in local print media, but find gardeners who will tell their friends about the Gagne’s inventory spur a lot of interest and traffic through the nursery. They keep their business name out in front of potential customers by utilizing the internet. A graphic designer was hired to build their website and it is an active link on the web pages developed by NHPGA, NHLA, and the Association of Professional Landscape Designers. Doug earned a certification with the Association of Professional Landscape Designers, following the submission of extensive landscape plans, and a transcript showing his record of continuing education in the landscape design field. In addition to maintaining membership in these green industry organizations, Doug is a member of the Cary Award Committee. He serves on the Hollis Planning Board and enjoys the ability to guide growth in his local community. One other planning board member has a background in environmental horticulture and together they represent a good resource of information on how to build commercial or residential areas that are pleasing in appearance.

Guide to Successful Planting and Care

Before you plant...
Can't plant your purchases right away? Relax! Plants in containers will remain in good health for a long time. Just make sure that they are watered regularly so that they don't dry out before you are ready to plant them. A slightly shady spot will be beneficial. Balled-and-burlapped (B&B) plants may also be treated the same, except that a mulch around the roots will slow down water loss and keep the roots cool until planting. If you have any questions after reading this planting guide, please give us a call at 603-882-5538.

Soil preparation...
Adding at least a couple of inches of organic matter such as Coast of Maine^tm compost over the surface of the bed, along with perhaps a dusting of powdered limestone and a sprinkling of a good organic fertilizer, such as Pro Gro^tm. Then turn them all into the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches. Rake smooth, and the planting will be easy. Unless adding a plant to an existing bed, don't cheat by just amending the soil removed from the planting hole, for the roots need to be encouraged to be developed beyond it. This is especially true when planting trees and shrubs. Many studies have shown that amending the soil only within the planting hole actually inhibits root development beyond it. The roots need to grow into the surrounding soil, and the sooner that happens, the faster and better the plant will become established.

Note: plants that are said to require "good drainage" usually need some sand added to the soil, rather than organic matter.


Drawing by Tom Strangfeld. Used with permission.

Planting...
Dig a hole at least twice as wide as the rootball; wider is better, especially for trees and shrubs, but no deeper than the height of the root ball. (Exceptions would be roses, clematis, and peonies: these will generally do best in a hole dug about the same size as a 5 gallon bucket, with richly amended soil). If the soil has been prepared as earlier explained, no additives are needed.

After digging the hole, remove a potted plant from its pot and examine the roots: any that are encircling the soil should be gently pulled apart with fingers. More substantial roots that encircle the pot can be cut or teased away with an old knife, trowel, or spade. Set the plant in place, and after making sure that it is facing the right direction and is plumb, fill the hole with soil level with the top of the root ball but not covering it. Press the soil firmly with your hands, and add more if needed to be level with the top of the root ball. (See illustration.) Water well.

Balled and burlapped plants are installed the same way, except that any twine should be cut off after the plant is set in the hole, and the burlap loosened and gently cut away with a utility knife. Wire baskets should not be removed, as they help keep the root ball intact. (See illustration.)

Then, mulch the soil with a 2-inch layer of shredded bark or other material of your choice. Please do not mound the mulch up around the stems.

Mulches...
Organic mulches of many sorts are recommended: shredded bark; buckwheat or cocoa hulls; compost; shredded leaves; and even pine needles (the answer is no, they don't make the soil more acidic, but you can add a little extra lime if you aren't sure). All mulches add valuable organic matter to the soil as they decompose, so top-dress as needed. Avoid mulch volcanoes around trees! Pea stone makes good mulch for plants that prefer dry, gravelly soil, such as those found in rock gardens.


Drawing by UMass Extension. Used with permission.

Watering...
Lawn irrigation systems are not suitable for watering trees, shrubs and perennials. Consider installing a reliable, waterconserving drip irrigation system. Newly installed plants should not be allowed to completely dry out. Watering depends upon many factors: season, water needs of plant, exposure to sun or wind, weather, etc. Check the soil regularly for dryness. Dry soil falls apart when handling it; moist soil feels cool and retains its shape somewhat when squeezed. Water deeply rather than shallowly. Do not depend upon natural rainfall when establishing plants!

Aftercare...
Fertilizer, whether synthetic or organic, may be applied in the spring or fall. Organic forms are best, as they feed the soil rather than the plant, and release their nutrients slowly. We recommend Pro Gro^tm.You may choose a specialty fertilizer, or an all-purpose 5-10-5 or close equivalent. Adding a thin layer of compost each fall contributes valuable organic matter as well as a modicum of nutrients, which feed the soil. You'll see a difference the next year in your garden.

Winter Protection...
Perennials benefit from a light mulch applied in late fall, after the soil has frozen. Salt marsh hay is the best, because it contains no weed seeds, and lasts for a few years if dried and properly stored the next spring. Check The Mixed Border Nursery and Gardens for availability. Otherwise, use evergreen boughs, such as recycled Christmas trees or straw. Uncover gradually in late March or very early April, after the snow has melted.

Trees and shrubs usually need no winter protection, except for evergreens, which often benefit from screening out the winter sun and wind for a year or two after planting. A roll of burlap works well. Various wraps applied to the trunks of trees are usually not recommended.

Please remember that gardening involves nature, and weather cycles can affect the winter survivability of plants in the landscape, despite our best efforts.

Pruning...
Pruning is a subject unto itself. Suffice to say that most people do not prune plants properly; plants are often sheared into shapes ranging from golf balls and hockey pucks to chicken nuggets. A better method is to selectively thin out branches that have become too long, or too dense. Restraint, and a good book on pruning is helpful, or call us at The Mixed Border Nursery and Gardens to have us do the pruning the right way, at the right time.

Problems?...
Although we strive to sell only pest-resistant plants, occasionally insects or disease affect plants. Please be sure to identify the problem before treatment to avoid possible environmental harm. Call us, or contact your county Cooperative Extension Service office. In Hillsborough County, NH, the contact number is 1-877-398-4769 or UNH Cooperative Extension Service.

Our Guarantee...
We guarantee that our plants are true to name and in healthy condition when they leave the nursery, and will not knowingly sell any otherwise. If you have a problem with one of our plants, please let us know about it as soon as possible. Most experienced gardeners realize that losing plants occasionally is part of gardening. Sometimes plants perish due to unusual weather, improper planting or aftercare, or placement in the wrong location. Rarely will plants fail due to insects and disease. The Mixed Border Nursery and Gardens will not be liable for any such losses. If a plant fails to survive within 30 days of purchase, we will provide, at our discretion, full replacement or store credit based on the purchase price. Responsibility for losses beyond 30 days will be shared with the gardener, and we will offer a 50% store credit based on the purchase price of the plant. We cannot extend our policy beyond 90 days from the date of purchase or beyond the year of purchase, whichever is sooner. Plants purchased on sale are excluded from any warranty. All returns must be accompanied by the original sales receipt and plant in question. (Effective 6/1/06) Plants installed by The Mixed Border will be warranted for a period of one year following the date of planting. Certain conditions apply.

Right Plant, Right Place - Lopaholics

A common landscape mistake that both homeowners and landscape professionals make is to choose the wrong plant for its intended spot. Sometimes the reason for the mismatch is due to unmet cultural needs or a lack of plant cold hardiness, and sometimes it is because the eventual size of the plant is wrong for its given spot. In the former, a sort of horticultural Darwinism applies, and the plant struggles or dies. In the latter, the plant happily establishes itself and grows to exceed its allotted space. Then the loppers or hedge shears are taken off the hook on the wall, and the mistake is "corrected". Some people are so eager to correct these mistakes that they do so several times each year.

There should be a 12-step program for lopper addicts, something like Plantabusers Anonymous ("Hi. My name is Tim, and I...I am a lopaholic. I can't help myself. I see a bush, and I gotta get the hedge shears out. I crave the smell of clippings on a Saturday morning. My father was a lopaholic, too...; I got the habit from him...")

Consider the use of the so-called dwarf burning bush (Euonymus alatus 'Compactus') near the home. This plant provides little interest to the landscape except for a couple of weeks in the fall, when its leaves turn ruby-red before dropping. The word "dwarf" is actually a misnomer: the standard form of the burning bush will get to fifteen feet in height, and the same in spread. The dwarf form will easily get to twelve feet, both in height and width: hardly a dwarf. When I advise people against the use of this plant near the house, I am usually told "That's OK, I can hack it back each year." (That's one of the warning signs of lopaholism). If you want a plant to get no more than four feet tall because it is to be planted below a window, then it makes sense to choose a plant that won't grow any taller than four feet, rather than one that must be cut back regularly. (By the way, burning bushes, dwarf or not, are now categorized as invasive exotics that spread into the natural landscape by their prolific seeds, displacing native plants. A ban against their sale and distribution is presently under consideration in New Hampshire as well as other northeastern states.)

There are many other examples as well, all of which are typically found in "foundation plantings" on any street or road. Most yews are actually trees, unless we clip them into cones, hockey pucks and McNuggets. Arborvitae and hemlocks will become tall as well: usually to forty feet or more. And large-leaved rhododendrons will one day become house-eating green monsters as well. All of these require periodic lopping to prevent them from reaching their genetically-programmed size.

There are many choices of plants that will fit comfortably around a house better than the usual choices we usually see. Instead of the typical large-leaved rhododendrons, why not try some of the compact types? 'Boule de Neige' is a dandy, with white flowers in late May. This variety, although less common, has been available for about a hundred years or more. It performs better in New Hampshire than 'Cunningham's White' or 'Chionoides', which are easier to find. Weston Nurseries, in Hopkinton, Massachusetts has developed some other compact rhododendrons with pink or red flowers. These may be difficult to locate. Or, try some of the compact small-leaved hybrids, which are usually hardier anyway, especially in full sun. 'Waltham' will only grow to about three feet in height, and wider than tall. The Wilson rhododendron (Rh. laetivirens) will become a bit taller, but no more than four feet, and has excellent foliage that somewhat resembles that of mountain laurel. Both of these have clear pink flowers in May.



Rather than the ubiquitous yew, why not try a dwarf conifer? There are many types available, more than the number of varieties of yews, including dwarf forms of spruce, false cypress (Chamaecyparis spp.) and fir. Foliage colors range from green to yellow and blue. Most of these will never need trimming, if the right plant is selected for the spot.

For shrubs, put forsythias and burning bushes in a shrub border, where they can grow as tall as they please, and replace them with an assortment of ornamental shrubs. Some of my favorites are the many forms of Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii), which provide at least 6 months of interest. A dwarf form of the native summersweet (Clethra alnifolia 'Compacta') is especially nice, with fragrant flowers in mid-summer. It will get no more than four feet tall. It has proved hardier than the other compact form called 'Hummingbird'. There are several spireas that have interesting foliage as well as early summer flowers: Spirea albiflora, or the white-flowered spirea, will get no more than three feet tall; Spirea 'Magic Carpet' has colorful yellowish foliage with burgundy tones at the tips of the branches. It, as well as the dwarf alpine spirea (S. japonica 'Alpina') are superb in the mixed border, where they associate well with perennials.

Dwarf weigelas, fothergillas,and winterberry are but some of the other choices of plants available that will not outgrow their welcome in the garden. Their size makes them adaptable to the traditional foundation planting, as well as to their inclusion in a perennial garden or mixed border.

If low maintenance is your goal, why not choose plants that don't need to be cut back to keep them in check? There are many advantages: no wondering if you have just cut off next year's flower buds, the natural shape of the plant is maintained, and you have more time to do other activities. Like cutting the lawn.


The previous article originally appeared in the Hollis Times, Hollis, NH.

Mellow a Garden with Yellow

Although it has been said that the imitation of nature is the most difficult of the arts, there is much to be gained from the attempt. Indeed, it is from nature that most good garden designers receive their creative inspiration. Careful observations of how plants arrange themselves in the natural world, and how they change with the seasons, stir designers to interpret such vignettes in abstract or realistic presentations that we call gardens.

If one looks closely, there is beauty to be found everywhere, even in the most banal of scenes. One can find inspiration in the verticality of reeds piercing the rippled surface of a pond, or in the interplay of light and shadow on plants growing at the edge of woods; even the desert-like existence of a gravelly bank reveals textures and patterns that appeal.

Although my attention is sometimes captured by a meadowy field of flowers, I am more often moved by the colors of leaves against a blue sky, in much the same way as when viewing a stained glass window illuminated by sunshine. When similarly backlit, leaves reveal that they are not all the same shade of green. There are deep greens, blue- greens, gray -greens, yellow -greens, and every shade in between, not to mention plants with reddish or wine-colored leaves. Such variation of leaf color is what adds beauty to a natural landscape, and to a garden as well. Of course, flowers usually enhance the scene as well, but they are ephemeral, to be ravished briefly before they pass. Leaves endure for months, if not longer.

Were all leaves the same shade of green, a garden would be less interesting, and would depend more upon varying shapes, sizes, and textures to stimulate the viewer. Lacking those differences, the scene would have little appeal. Think of a lush, weed-free lawn, which is, after all, a garden composed of millions of plants: it may be lovely for a moment, but quickly becomes boring, and one's view is carried to its surroundings for visual relief.

Varying shades of green enliven a landscape, by enhancing each other. Dark greens make light greens even brighter, and blue-greens bluer. It is tempting to think that these are healthy shades of green, since yellow leaves are often associated with ill health or lack of fertility. For this reason many gardeners have an aversion to yellow leaved plants. But by observing nature, we can see that some leaves are indeed yellow-green when in good health. In spring, the new growth of grass as well as other foliage is often pale green. In the full richness of summer, a maturing meadow has a lot of yellow leaves, which stand out against the bluish-green of pines. I particularly enjoy passing by salt marshes at the ocean on sunny August days, and seeing the very pale green leaves of the marsh grass against the deep blue of the sky or the gray-green of the water. In fall, yellow leaves are all around, and in winter, have you noticed how some pines on roadsides become almost golden?

When choosing plants to fill your garden, it is important to imagine plants in a garden context: a tall, thin plant may look too narrow examined at the nursery, or when viewed in a book, but imagine what it would look like in a garden, with spreading plants nearby for contrast. The differences in form are accentuated in each other's presence. Similarly, a plant with yellowish leaves may appear in need of nutrients if you have a bias toward deep green foliage, but be daring, and try putting that plant next to other shades of green. The resulting contrast confers a luminous quality on the yellow-greens, and thereby creates more interest.

There are many plants whose leaves are lighter than the norm, whatever the norm is. Many of them are variegated with yellow, creamy or white leaf portions, which I am especially fond of, but variegated plants are for another article. Most plants with entirely yellow leaves are brightest early in the season, and become closer to green as the season progresses. Some of my favorite yellow-leaved shrubs are the golden barberry (Berberis thunbergii 'Aurea', or 'Bonanza Gold'), golden elderberry (Sambucus canadensis 'Aurea' or 'Sutherlandii'). A wild new spirea with buttery foliage from spring through fall is Spirea thunbergii 'Mellow Yellow', which bears tiny white flowers in spring. For trees, try the rare but choice golden black locust (Robinia pseudacacia 'Frisia'), or the similarly textured golden honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos 'Sunburst').

There are innumerable dwarf conifers that have yellow or golden needles. Perhaps most well known are the false cypresses (Chamaecyparis species.), represented notably by the yellow thread-leaved false cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Gold Spangle' is one of many forms). Also easy to find are golden junipers (Juniperus species.), such as the gold-tipped Pfitzer juniper. Less common, but very choice, are the golden forms of our native pasture juniper, such as the bullet-shaped Gold Cone (Juniperus communis 'Gold Cone'), and the golden mutation of the prostrate Bar Harbor juniper called Mother Lode (Juniperus horizontalis 'Mother Lode'). Golden pines (Pinus species.), firs (Abies species.) and spruces (Picea species.) are rarer still, but available.

There are many perennials whose leaves are anything from light green to golden as well. Many hostas have been selected for their rich yellow foliage, which brighten up a shady area. There are gold-leaved forms of sedges (Carex elata 'Bowles Golden', among others) which also are best for shade, and grasses which prefer sun that have yellowish leaves, such as autumn moor grass (Sesleria autumnalis), and especially the new golden form of fescue (Festuca glauca), called 'Golden Toupee'. Bellflowers (Campanula species), Speedwells (Veronica species) and other popular perennials also appear in yellow-leaved forms.

A couple of tender perennials used as annuals in our climate that have been popular lately are such plants as the Coleus, more often found with reddish foliage but there are pure yellow forms as well; sweet potato (Ipomoea batatas 'Marguerite'), with chartreuse foliage, and the yellow form of licorice plant (Helichrysum petiolarum 'Limelight'). The latter two make excellent plants for hanging baskets and other container plantings.

When using yellow-leaved plants in the garden, a little goes a long way. Just as too much of the same shade of green is dull, too much yellow can be overpowering. Try to work in different shades of green, including deep greens which act as a foil to the lighter shades, and a bit of yellow, which will make your garden appear richer, mellow, and pleasing to the eye. If you aren't sure how to find the right balance, consult a garden designer. Or, seek inspiration from all around you and see how nature so easily achieves what we all strive for. And then be daring. Go for the gold.


The previous article originally appeared in the Hollis Times, Hollis, NH.