Fall: The World’s a Stage

“Hardy” mums. I just don’t get them.

Rather, I don’t understand why people continue to plant them, when there are better choices for the fall garden (more about those in a moment.) Sure, they’re colorful: bright beacons of hope that perhaps the frost-free days of early autumn will last a bit longer. But these beacons are often as subtle as airport landing lights – unblinking yellow or white gobs that fairly scream, “Look at me!!!” when the brilliant harmonic tones of the maple, the birch and the sumac – the symphony of the season -- is reaching its colorful crescendo before falling to the ground in a whisper.

The calmer pinks, bronzes and oranges of mums are hardly better, as each plant is pinched and squeezed by the grower into a perfect pompom of flowers with no greenery to dilute the effect; an unnatural natural object in the landscape. And the term “hardy mum” is a bit of a misnomer, as these highly bred beauties are no match for a heavy frost which withers their blooms, or for our cold winters, which usually are fatal.

Consider in their place plants which reliably return each year to offer colorful drama without the harsh stage light effects. One that I feature often is an Aster called ‘Raydon’s Favorite’ (Aster oblongifolius ‘Raydon’s Favorite’), with its cheerful bright blue daisies in September and October. Unlike many, perhaps more familiar asters, ‘Raydon’s Favorite’ remains dense and bushy without losing its foliage to disease. It likes full sun, and tolerates drought once established.


Raydon’s Favorite

I particularly like to use it as a companion to ornamental grasses, most of which achieve glory in October. Even after a heavy frost has dealt a crushing blow to many perennials, grasses such as Miscanthus (with its many varieties) are at their peak, carrying silvery plumes above the graceful clumps of foliage. The onset of winter causes the stalks and stems to turn tawny, but they are sturdy enough to shrug off winter snows to provide a quiet presence in the barren landscape. Other ornamental grasses such Switch Grass (Panicum), Bluestem (Andropogon), Fountain Grass (Pennisetum), Indian Grass (Sorghastrum), and many others, continue to please into the fall.


Miscanthus in fall

Threadleaf (or Arkansas) Bluestar (Amsonia hubrichtii) is a simple yet attractive plant with 3 seasons of interest. They bear small blue starry flowers in spring, and by summer have become durable low bushes of long, thin leaves arranged on willowy stems. Perhaps the best is saved for last, as in September the green becomes chartreuse, and eventually golden by October: a perennial with fall foliage. These are best planted en masse, and combine well with bolder- leaved plants to create a contrast of textures, the fundamental way to develop garden interest. Plants for such supporting roles must include Alum Root, or Heuchera, which is not the old-fashioned Coral Bells of your Grandmother’s garden. Today’s Heucheras have been hybridized to offer stunning foliage in a wide variety of colors including lime, chartreuse, peach, burgundy, purple, and near-black. Cold weather often brings out secondary colors and overlays of red or silver.


Amsonia hubrichtii in fall


Heucheras

Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Goldsturm’) have been out of flower for a few weeks now, but their chocolate cones are a food source to gold and purple finches which will feast on the black seeds until winter. There is a longer blooming variety known as fulgida, still in bloom now with fine bright yellow daisies. Surely these are better than mums! Allow the seedheads to remain on Black-eyed Susans: the birds will benefit, as will anyone who is able to appreciate their blackened skeletons outlined against the snow. For while it is easy to savor the bravura spectacle that surrounds us now, we must find joy in the far subtler qualities of the garden in winter, long after its notes have faded.


Black-eyed Susans

Planning a New Landscape

Home landscapes, whether old or new, are rarely designed or planted with the active lifestyles of today’s homeowners in mind. The same mistakes get repeated, as large-growing plants -- yews, rhododendrons, arborvitae and others -- are installed too closely together, leading to crowding and the need for regular clipping to prevent windows and walkways from being covered in green. It seems that homeowners today have little time to maintain their plantings, and lack the skills to properly prune them, rather than shear and shape into 3-D forms. (The latter can also be said of many landscape contractors.) Such static plantings offer little seasonal change and limited flowering.

In today’s sluggish real estate market, increasing the visual appeal of your home can become a strong selling point now or later. Consider removing overgrown shrubbery and starting afresh with a new palette of plants which will offer reduced maintenance and greater beauty to enhance your home through all four seasons. Include a colorful and diverse blend of small ornamental trees, deciduous shrubs, rhododendrons and mountain laurels hybridized to remain compact, dwarf conifers which rarely require pruning, and season-extending perennials that serve as ground covers to reduce weeding.

These so-called “mixed borders” can be more complex to design, and may require the guidance of professionals. Your local nursery or garden center may be able to provide free or fee-based plans if you bring a scaled drawing of the area to be planted showing the house footprint, walks and other features, entrances and windows (including sill heights.) Be sure to note north, and how much shade the area will receive. Photographs are always helpful.

Better yet, seek experienced garden designers who will visit your home and create a plan for you. The Association of Professional Landscape Designers has an online member list, including those who have become certified by demonstrating professionalism and proficiency. The New Hampshire Landscape Association is another source of landscape contractors and designers.

This article originally appeared in the September 23, 2008 edition of the Amherst Citizen.

Burning Bushes and Fall Garden Color

Ah, September in New England, my favorite month. Cool, dewy nights melt into morning under the warming sun, its rays splashed against an azure sky. Along roadsides and in unmown meadows the brassy yellow of Goldenrod is untarnished, still gaudy yet not out of place among the clumps of restless grasses swaying in the breeze. And in the distance can be seen the early scarlets and oranges of fall, flaming heralds promising the natural, transcendent glory that is October in New England.

And it’s to October we look ahead in our gardens and landscapes, as Burning bushes (Euonymus alatus and varieties) begin to display their sole reason to grow them: brilliant carmine foliage. Two weeks of Technicolor, and fifty weeks of humdrum.

Such ephemeral beauty doesn’t come without a price, however. To produce the color that inspired its common name, Burning bush requires sun, good soil and plenty of water. Lacking one or more of these, the plant will sulk and disappoint you with pale green leaves all summer, which become a lackluster pink before dropping to the ground. A greater cost is to the local environment, as it has been determined that Burning bush is an invasive species (commonly defined as a plant of exotic origin which has aggressively spread beyond cultivation and displaces native vegetation.) In short, Burning bush is a known thug, and has been prohibited from sale in New Hampshire and several other states.

So, what’s a gardener to do?

First, if you have Burning bush in your yard, the choice of whether to keep or remove it is up to you: there is no squad of Plant Police. That said, it certainly is sensible to remove seedlings that may have arisen elsewhere on your property, at the very least.

Second, there are several alternatives to Burning bush, and they are superior, as they offer multiple seasons of interest as well as being native. None will approach the final size of Burning bush (even the “dwarf” variety of which will become a 10 or 12 foot globe,) and the fruiting forms will attract birds.

Here are a few:

Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia ‘Brilliantissima’) A native shrub, growing 6 to 8 feet tall, with clusters of pure white flowers in spring followed by glossy red berries later in the summer. The berries are edible but astringent, an aspect which yields its common name. Fall foliage is spectacular – a fiery scarlet. Preserves can be made from the fruit which is loaded with Vitamin C and antioxidants.



Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa ‘Hugin’) Also native, and similar to Red Chokeberry, but bearing inky berries on shrubs that rarely grow above 6 feet tall. Excellent fall foliage.

Diablo Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Diablo’) A superb purple-leaved selection of the native ninebark shrub, becoming reddish-orange in autumn. Handsome burgundy-tinted white button flowers in late spring. To 8 feet tall.

Blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum and hybrids) Spring flowers, tasty summer fruit, and incredible vivid scarlet leaves in the fall – what more can you ask for? Blueberries are deserving of space in the home landscape for their gustatory as well as ornamental attributes. The Lowbush blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium) offers itself as a good ground cover, with the same features. Both are native.

Witherod (Viburnum cassinoides) Another splendid, if underused, native shrub, with fantastic fall foliage that leans toward brilliant red adorning hardy bushes rarely growing over 6 feet tall. Add that to the creamy white flowers in spring which become multicolored berries by summer, and you’ll forget about Burning bush. And the same qualities can be given to the closely related Possomhaw, Viburnum nudum ‘Winterthur’.

A few exotic (but decidedly non-invasive) options:

Paperbark maple (Acer griseum) Growing to twenty-five feet tall, more or less, with excellent red to orange fall foliage. Named for its exfoliating, cinnamon-colored bark which provides year-round interest, but particularly in the winter.

Japanese maple (Acer palmatum and varieties) Most commonly found in its burgundy-leaved forms which offer stunning fall tones of red and orange, but even the green-leaved types can transmute into exquisite cerise hues that rival rubies. Growth heights from six to twenty feet.

Red-veined Enkianthus (Enkianthus campanulatus and varieties) Fall foliage is variably red and orange, but can include purple tones. Lovely dangling bell-shaped flowers in spring. Although capable of growing large, it rarely seems to exceed 10 feet tall in New Hampshire, slowly developing a picturesque branching habit. Of Asian origin.

Any of these shrubs can be safely planted until about the middle of October. They, and many others not mentioned, will do more than simply light up your fall garden. They will delight you throughout the year.

Zoned Out

I have lived in southern New Hampshire all of my life (well, so far at least), and recall cold winters, mild winters, and those that fall somewhere in between. Although a rare occurrence, I do remember low temperatures on bitterly cold January nights dropping in the mid-teens below zero (that's about -26 degrees C, for you of the Metric persuasion.) More typical is the winter when the lowest it's apt to get is around -10 degrees F, but, again, it can get colder. (And let's not even talk about wind chill.)

I bring this up because I recently read that the Arbor Day Foundation has re-scaled the USDA Hardiness Zone Maps, and that southern New Hampshire, like most of the US, has gone up a zone of hardiness, in our case from USDA Zone 5 (minimum -20 degrees F.) to USDA Zone 6 (minimum -10 degrees F.) These maps are generated by the USDA, and are supposed to be updated every 15 years. The last one was done in 1990, so we should be due for another one in 2005. (Wait a minute, isn't this 2007? Well, I'm sure those folks at the USDA have better things to do, such as helping "dole" out advice for the banana orchards and pineapple plantations that are sure to be springing up across the country.) The Arbor Day Foundation took the same data that the USDA uses, and produced this new map:



Is the climate truly changing? Who knows. Evidence seems to be leaning that way, especially given the recent U.N. report on the subject. It's true that this has been an unusually mild winter in New England, as have most of the recent ones been. It was warmer on Christmas (45 degrees F) than it was on Easter (40 degrees F), and on January 6th we hit 69 degrees!

It's interesting, though, to listen to shoppers who come into The Mixed Border and ask for plants that are hardy to at least USDA Zone 4 (minimum -30 degrees F), and who live mere miles away. They cite previous problems with plants not surviving our winters, and suggest they live in a particularly cold spot. In truth, the reason their plants may not survive the winter may have less to do with how cold it gets, but how warm it was before it turned cold. In other words, having a prolonged warm fall, with nighttime temperatures that remain above freezing through November and into December, can be injurious, and sometimes fatal, to plants that are otherwise hardy. Dormancy is delayed as these plants are often the victims of a cruel deception, carried out by a capricious climate that pays the calendar no heed. For no matter how mild the fall and early winter, the icy hammer will surely be swept down from the north, carried in a frozen, unforgiving grip. Just a bit later than normal, and a hardiness zone milder.

And here we are, in early April, less than a week after the most recent storm that laid down a half a foot of slushy crisco snow over the unsuspecting snowdrops and crocuses, not to mention the pots of plants that we just uncovered from their protective winter blankets. We have had more snow in March and April than we had from November through February, and more is forecast for Thursday. With Opening Day at the nursery just 2 weeks away and counting, we are behind in our preparations, but are as eager as every other gardener to see something green.

About The Mixed Border

This following article originally appeared in The Plantsman August/September 2006

The Mixed Border Nursery and Gardens is owned by Doug and Kathy Gagne, a husband and wife team with a wealth of experience in plants and business management. The tranquil nursery they’ve built from the ground up is a tremendous accomplishment. While they are just a few miles off Rt. 101 A and the Everett Turnpike in Hollis, visitors experience only peace and quiet as they stroll through their display gardens. The nursery is enveloped in a completely natural setting and this character is remarkable when weighed against the heavy commercial and residential development that is in close proximity.

Doug says, “We have worked hard to create a nursery that is comfortable and inviting. We encourage people to wander and shop at their own pace.”

Over the years, they’ve expanded every aspect of their operation including the number of full-time employees, the gardens, and the plant list. The business began on a much smaller scale. In 1984, Doug erected a barn and established a small nursery to supply his fledgling landscape design company. “The nursery was an add-on to my landscape business so I could raise some plants I couldn’t get elsewhere, and have them in the sizes I needed,” Doug says. He opened for business with a barn, and just two display gardens.



In the early years, The Mixed Border was a sole proprietorship with Doug at the helm, and Kathy working in the corporate world elsewhere. Kathy joined the business full-time in 1997. While there are many areas that overlap. Kathy’s focus is chiefly managing the nursery and retail sales. In addition to his plant production and selection responsibilities, Doug manages a landscape design/build crew, and presents design plans to customers.

To accommodate the ever-growing plan list offered at The Mixed Border, new areas have been developed for retail sales. Now their nursery includes a shade structure to feature perennials recommended for shady or woodland areas. Landscape cloth is stretched throughout the retail sales area to suppress weed growth. On a daily basis, the landscape cloth is swept to maintain a clean and orderly sales area. All plants offered for sale are sold in containers ranging from 1 quart to three gallon. Typically, the daylilies and hostas would be offered in the large 3-gallon size. The majority are sold in the 3 quart size to 1 gallon containers.

The inventory today features over 1,000 varieties of perennials, more than 200 varieties of woody plants, and some specialty annuals. Doug says, “There are at least four other businesses in the area that are heavy into annuals, so we’re not into this as much.”

To carve out their own marketing niche, Doug says, “We offer plants that you won’t always find at other places. When you have a fixed amount of retail space, you have to make smart choices about your plant list.”

Some of the eye-catching varieties offered at The Mixed Border include a perennial geranium variety named ‘Espresso’. This unique Cranesbill features chocolate brown foliage with a white flower. Customers will find up to 36 varieties of perennial geraniums, along with up to 12 varieties of Echinacea. Doug says, “I’ve always been a plant freak. I enjoy seeking out new varieties.” He admits being partial to variegated cultivars and dwarf conifers.

Kathy adds, “People seemed pleased to hear that of 12 Echinacea we offer, half of them are new introductions. This satisfies their desire for something unique.”

But experience has taught them to achieve a reasonable balance between the old and the new. “We keep the tried and true varieties like Echinacea ‘Magnus’ and Rudbeckias well stocked because they are solid performers and still in demand,” says Kathy.

Doug adds, “When you feature a lot of new material, the burden is on you to educate gardeners about their growth habits and flowering characteristics. Display gardens go a long way to help in this area.” The display gardens represent a “living catalog” where customers can view full-grown example of a wide array of plants.

Doug’s background in plants includes a solid blend of horticultural education and green industry experience. He graduated from UNH with a degree in Plant Science and immediately joined Weston Nurseries in Hopkinton, MA. He worked there for six years after leaving UNH, splitting his time between the garden center and wholesale division. Eventually, the challenge of owning his own business won him over and he left to begin his nursery and landscape design business.

Two areas of the business have been customized to fit their location exactly. The first is a plan to insure an adequate supply of water. Drilled wells in this area of Hollis are not high-yielding, so up to three wells are needed to nourish the plants. Moisture of course hasn’t been an issue this year, but in a drought, sufficient water can be a concern. The third well is used seasonally as needed.

At The Mixed Border all growing media is mixed on-site. Doug says, “We don’t have enough room to bring in a large trailer-truck of soil mix.” Five years ago he purchased a soil mixer and now mixes up about 150 cubic yards each year. Bark, peat, sand, and a perlite mix represent the core ingredients of their growing media.

In early March, a potting shed is a hub of activity to pot up young plants, make divisions, or take cuttings from mature plants. Two greenhouses provide space for the on-site plant production work.

In recent years, Doug and Kathy have seen their customer base expand. They draw customers from the Monadnock area to the west, from Massachusetts, and from surrounding NH communities. They purchase some advertising in local print media, but find gardeners who will tell their friends about the Gagne’s inventory spur a lot of interest and traffic through the nursery. They keep their business name out in front of potential customers by utilizing the internet. A graphic designer was hired to build their website and it is an active link on the web pages developed by NHPGA, NHLA, and the Association of Professional Landscape Designers. Doug earned a certification with the Association of Professional Landscape Designers, following the submission of extensive landscape plans, and a transcript showing his record of continuing education in the landscape design field. In addition to maintaining membership in these green industry organizations, Doug is a member of the Cary Award Committee. He serves on the Hollis Planning Board and enjoys the ability to guide growth in his local community. One other planning board member has a background in environmental horticulture and together they represent a good resource of information on how to build commercial or residential areas that are pleasing in appearance.

Guide to Successful Planting and Care

Before you plant...
Can't plant your purchases right away? Relax! Plants in containers will remain in good health for a long time. Just make sure that they are watered regularly so that they don't dry out before you are ready to plant them. A slightly shady spot will be beneficial. Balled-and-burlapped (B&B) plants may also be treated the same, except that a mulch around the roots will slow down water loss and keep the roots cool until planting. If you have any questions after reading this planting guide, please give us a call at 603-882-5538.

Soil preparation...
Adding at least a couple of inches of organic matter such as Coast of Maine^tm compost over the surface of the bed, along with perhaps a dusting of powdered limestone and a sprinkling of a good organic fertilizer, such as Pro Gro^tm. Then turn them all into the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches. Rake smooth, and the planting will be easy. Unless adding a plant to an existing bed, don't cheat by just amending the soil removed from the planting hole, for the roots need to be encouraged to be developed beyond it. This is especially true when planting trees and shrubs. Many studies have shown that amending the soil only within the planting hole actually inhibits root development beyond it. The roots need to grow into the surrounding soil, and the sooner that happens, the faster and better the plant will become established.

Note: plants that are said to require "good drainage" usually need some sand added to the soil, rather than organic matter.


Drawing by Tom Strangfeld. Used with permission.

Planting...
Dig a hole at least twice as wide as the rootball; wider is better, especially for trees and shrubs, but no deeper than the height of the root ball. (Exceptions would be roses, clematis, and peonies: these will generally do best in a hole dug about the same size as a 5 gallon bucket, with richly amended soil). If the soil has been prepared as earlier explained, no additives are needed.

After digging the hole, remove a potted plant from its pot and examine the roots: any that are encircling the soil should be gently pulled apart with fingers. More substantial roots that encircle the pot can be cut or teased away with an old knife, trowel, or spade. Set the plant in place, and after making sure that it is facing the right direction and is plumb, fill the hole with soil level with the top of the root ball but not covering it. Press the soil firmly with your hands, and add more if needed to be level with the top of the root ball. (See illustration.) Water well.

Balled and burlapped plants are installed the same way, except that any twine should be cut off after the plant is set in the hole, and the burlap loosened and gently cut away with a utility knife. Wire baskets should not be removed, as they help keep the root ball intact. (See illustration.)

Then, mulch the soil with a 2-inch layer of shredded bark or other material of your choice. Please do not mound the mulch up around the stems.

Mulches...
Organic mulches of many sorts are recommended: shredded bark; buckwheat or cocoa hulls; compost; shredded leaves; and even pine needles (the answer is no, they don't make the soil more acidic, but you can add a little extra lime if you aren't sure). All mulches add valuable organic matter to the soil as they decompose, so top-dress as needed. Avoid mulch volcanoes around trees! Pea stone makes good mulch for plants that prefer dry, gravelly soil, such as those found in rock gardens.


Drawing by UMass Extension. Used with permission.

Watering...
Lawn irrigation systems are not suitable for watering trees, shrubs and perennials. Consider installing a reliable, waterconserving drip irrigation system. Newly installed plants should not be allowed to completely dry out. Watering depends upon many factors: season, water needs of plant, exposure to sun or wind, weather, etc. Check the soil regularly for dryness. Dry soil falls apart when handling it; moist soil feels cool and retains its shape somewhat when squeezed. Water deeply rather than shallowly. Do not depend upon natural rainfall when establishing plants!

Aftercare...
Fertilizer, whether synthetic or organic, may be applied in the spring or fall. Organic forms are best, as they feed the soil rather than the plant, and release their nutrients slowly. We recommend Pro Gro^tm.You may choose a specialty fertilizer, or an all-purpose 5-10-5 or close equivalent. Adding a thin layer of compost each fall contributes valuable organic matter as well as a modicum of nutrients, which feed the soil. You'll see a difference the next year in your garden.

Winter Protection...
Perennials benefit from a light mulch applied in late fall, after the soil has frozen. Salt marsh hay is the best, because it contains no weed seeds, and lasts for a few years if dried and properly stored the next spring. Check The Mixed Border Nursery and Gardens for availability. Otherwise, use evergreen boughs, such as recycled Christmas trees or straw. Uncover gradually in late March or very early April, after the snow has melted.

Trees and shrubs usually need no winter protection, except for evergreens, which often benefit from screening out the winter sun and wind for a year or two after planting. A roll of burlap works well. Various wraps applied to the trunks of trees are usually not recommended.

Please remember that gardening involves nature, and weather cycles can affect the winter survivability of plants in the landscape, despite our best efforts.

Pruning...
Pruning is a subject unto itself. Suffice to say that most people do not prune plants properly; plants are often sheared into shapes ranging from golf balls and hockey pucks to chicken nuggets. A better method is to selectively thin out branches that have become too long, or too dense. Restraint, and a good book on pruning is helpful, or call us at The Mixed Border Nursery and Gardens to have us do the pruning the right way, at the right time.

Problems?...
Although we strive to sell only pest-resistant plants, occasionally insects or disease affect plants. Please be sure to identify the problem before treatment to avoid possible environmental harm. Call us, or contact your county Cooperative Extension Service office. In Hillsborough County, NH, the contact number is 1-877-398-4769 or UNH Cooperative Extension Service.

Our Guarantee...
We guarantee that our plants are true to name and in healthy condition when they leave the nursery, and will not knowingly sell any otherwise. If you have a problem with one of our plants, please let us know about it as soon as possible. Most experienced gardeners realize that losing plants occasionally is part of gardening. Sometimes plants perish due to unusual weather, improper planting or aftercare, or placement in the wrong location. Rarely will plants fail due to insects and disease. The Mixed Border Nursery and Gardens will not be liable for any such losses. If a plant fails to survive within 30 days of purchase, we will provide, at our discretion, full replacement or store credit based on the purchase price. Responsibility for losses beyond 30 days will be shared with the gardener, and we will offer a 50% store credit based on the purchase price of the plant. We cannot extend our policy beyond 90 days from the date of purchase or beyond the year of purchase, whichever is sooner. Plants purchased on sale are excluded from any warranty. All returns must be accompanied by the original sales receipt and plant in question. (Effective 6/1/06) Plants installed by The Mixed Border will be warranted for a period of one year following the date of planting. Certain conditions apply.

Right Plant, Right Place - Lopaholics

A common landscape mistake that both homeowners and landscape professionals make is to choose the wrong plant for its intended spot. Sometimes the reason for the mismatch is due to unmet cultural needs or a lack of plant cold hardiness, and sometimes it is because the eventual size of the plant is wrong for its given spot. In the former, a sort of horticultural Darwinism applies, and the plant struggles or dies. In the latter, the plant happily establishes itself and grows to exceed its allotted space. Then the loppers or hedge shears are taken off the hook on the wall, and the mistake is "corrected". Some people are so eager to correct these mistakes that they do so several times each year.

There should be a 12-step program for lopper addicts, something like Plantabusers Anonymous ("Hi. My name is Tim, and I...I am a lopaholic. I can't help myself. I see a bush, and I gotta get the hedge shears out. I crave the smell of clippings on a Saturday morning. My father was a lopaholic, too...; I got the habit from him...")

Consider the use of the so-called dwarf burning bush (Euonymus alatus 'Compactus') near the home. This plant provides little interest to the landscape except for a couple of weeks in the fall, when its leaves turn ruby-red before dropping. The word "dwarf" is actually a misnomer: the standard form of the burning bush will get to fifteen feet in height, and the same in spread. The dwarf form will easily get to twelve feet, both in height and width: hardly a dwarf. When I advise people against the use of this plant near the house, I am usually told "That's OK, I can hack it back each year." (That's one of the warning signs of lopaholism). If you want a plant to get no more than four feet tall because it is to be planted below a window, then it makes sense to choose a plant that won't grow any taller than four feet, rather than one that must be cut back regularly. (By the way, burning bushes, dwarf or not, are now categorized as invasive exotics that spread into the natural landscape by their prolific seeds, displacing native plants. A ban against their sale and distribution is presently under consideration in New Hampshire as well as other northeastern states.)

There are many other examples as well, all of which are typically found in "foundation plantings" on any street or road. Most yews are actually trees, unless we clip them into cones, hockey pucks and McNuggets. Arborvitae and hemlocks will become tall as well: usually to forty feet or more. And large-leaved rhododendrons will one day become house-eating green monsters as well. All of these require periodic lopping to prevent them from reaching their genetically-programmed size.

There are many choices of plants that will fit comfortably around a house better than the usual choices we usually see. Instead of the typical large-leaved rhododendrons, why not try some of the compact types? 'Boule de Neige' is a dandy, with white flowers in late May. This variety, although less common, has been available for about a hundred years or more. It performs better in New Hampshire than 'Cunningham's White' or 'Chionoides', which are easier to find. Weston Nurseries, in Hopkinton, Massachusetts has developed some other compact rhododendrons with pink or red flowers. These may be difficult to locate. Or, try some of the compact small-leaved hybrids, which are usually hardier anyway, especially in full sun. 'Waltham' will only grow to about three feet in height, and wider than tall. The Wilson rhododendron (Rh. laetivirens) will become a bit taller, but no more than four feet, and has excellent foliage that somewhat resembles that of mountain laurel. Both of these have clear pink flowers in May.



Rather than the ubiquitous yew, why not try a dwarf conifer? There are many types available, more than the number of varieties of yews, including dwarf forms of spruce, false cypress (Chamaecyparis spp.) and fir. Foliage colors range from green to yellow and blue. Most of these will never need trimming, if the right plant is selected for the spot.

For shrubs, put forsythias and burning bushes in a shrub border, where they can grow as tall as they please, and replace them with an assortment of ornamental shrubs. Some of my favorites are the many forms of Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii), which provide at least 6 months of interest. A dwarf form of the native summersweet (Clethra alnifolia 'Compacta') is especially nice, with fragrant flowers in mid-summer. It will get no more than four feet tall. It has proved hardier than the other compact form called 'Hummingbird'. There are several spireas that have interesting foliage as well as early summer flowers: Spirea albiflora, or the white-flowered spirea, will get no more than three feet tall; Spirea 'Magic Carpet' has colorful yellowish foliage with burgundy tones at the tips of the branches. It, as well as the dwarf alpine spirea (S. japonica 'Alpina') are superb in the mixed border, where they associate well with perennials.

Dwarf weigelas, fothergillas,and winterberry are but some of the other choices of plants available that will not outgrow their welcome in the garden. Their size makes them adaptable to the traditional foundation planting, as well as to their inclusion in a perennial garden or mixed border.

If low maintenance is your goal, why not choose plants that don't need to be cut back to keep them in check? There are many advantages: no wondering if you have just cut off next year's flower buds, the natural shape of the plant is maintained, and you have more time to do other activities. Like cutting the lawn.


The previous article originally appeared in the Hollis Times, Hollis, NH.