Thursday, May 30, 2013

Selecting, Planting and Caring for Peonies

We offer both herbaceous and woody (or tree) forms of peonies. The most familiar garden peonies are the herbaceous types, with showy and colorful flowers in May to June, depending upon the variety. Each blooms for a week or more. They are cut down to the ground each fall and rise again in the spring.

Tree peonies maintain woody stems which bear large leaves that drop in the fall, and their flowers are enormous: often up to ten inches across! These blossoms open and fade all too quickly, especially when grown in afternoon sun (although they need at least ½ day of sun to bloom well.) Thanks to the late breeder Mr. Itoh, there are also many “Itoh” or “intersectional” hybrids now available, which have both an herbaceous and a woody parent. These are some of the finest peonies available, with herbaceous foliage resembling that of their woody parent. Enhanced vigor and a longer bloom period, including varieties with yellow flowers, distinguish them from other peonies.

Peonies in The Mixed Border's garden

Flowers are typically classified as Single, which have showy petals surrounding functional carpels and golden-yellow stamens (reproductive parts); Japanese, with large outer petals and clusters of enlarged anthers sometimes edged in yellow; Semi-double, in which inner petals have formed within the ring of outer petals, and still contain functional reproductive parts; and Doubles, whose stamens and carpels have been transformed into a dense display of petaloids surrounded by the outer petals. With the large number of varieties in cultivation, there is often some overlap of these various forms, but I have tried to keep it simple. The Singles and the Japanese forms will tend to remain upright in flower, while the heavier Doubles may flop under their own weight. Support of these types may be recommended to keep the flowers off the ground; a subtle corset of bamboo canes and garden twine is usually enough. Peonies usually require a couple years to get established after planting to display their full floral qualities. Flower color can be affected by strong sun (fading of deeper colors) or cool weather (white varieties can develop pink tones.)

Most (but not all) peonies are fragrant, with the pink or white doubles usually your best bet for a scent that is typically rose-like. Red peonies, though pretty in the garden, don’t always make the best cut flowers, as their aroma isn’t always desirable. Some tree peonies are mildly lemon-scented.

Peony 'Krinkled White'

How to plant peonies:
As long as the planting site is well-chosen and well-prepared, Peonies will live for many decades with little care. Hybrid peonies perform best with at least a half day of full sun, and excepting tree peonies, more is better. If given the choice, some afternoon shade can help to reduce blooms fading in color or “going by” too quickly.

Well-drained soil is important, as areas which remain wet for periods of time may cause their thick and fleshy roots to rot. Because they are so long-lived, they deserve and need a planting hole that is deep and wide, and contains a good amount of organic matter such as compost. Dig a hole at least the size of a 5-gallon bucket and remove the soil, discarding any sand or gravel and reserving the topsoil or loam. To that, add an equal amount of compost (avoid all but extremely well-aged manure) and a handful of lime and organic fertilizer. Fill the hole with this mixture, such that the plant’s soil surface will be at (or slightly above) the soil level outside the hole. Take care not to place soil on top of the roots, either now or at some future time, as their flower buds will not form if planted too deeply. Mulch very lightly with good compost or a thin layer of shredded bark, and water well.

Do not allow the plant to dry out until well-established (usually within one year.) Peonies are drought-tolerant, but may go dormant early and flower poorly (if at all) the next year if not kept reasonably moist throughout the growing season. Fertilize each spring or fall with organic fertilizer.

Peony 'Sorbet'

Peony problems:
My peony doesn’t flower. Why? Peonies planted too deeply may not flower, nor will those grown in poor soil or shade. Keep the foliage vigorous and healthy.

Some of the leaves and flower stems have wilted and turned brown. Botrytis is a blight disease of peonies that happens most often when the foliage remains moist, sometimes due to rainy weather, or because of overhead irrigation (typically from lawn sprinklers.) Clip off the diseased parts, cleaning your clippers with rubbing alcohol between cuts. Throw the diseased stems in the trash. If needed, an appropriate fungicide may be applied as a preventative (but they rarely are curative.)

Friday, April 26, 2013

Selecting and Caring for Clematis

Clematis are lovely and useful plants for the garden. We offer 3 different types: the familiar twining vines, and the lesser-known shrubby and trailing forms.
  • The vines are available as the popular large-flowered hybrids as well as small-flowered hybrids and species. They are typically planted to grow up a lamppost or trellis, but are also attractive when allowed to clamber up a tree or shrub.

  • Shrubby clematis are commonly used in the perennial garden, where they offer late-season color. Most have a rather lazy habit, and can be supported using neighboring plants or stakes and twine.

  • Trailing clematis are the least known, and are typically either tied to a support such as a mailbox or a lamppost, or given the chance to trail freely through a garden.

Clematis are generally easy to grow, providing that certain conditions are met. First, they usually require at least 1/2 day of sun. Afternoon shade will benefit the blossoms of many clematis, especially those with prominent contrasting “bars” in the flowers. A deep, fertile soil is also needed, which can be prepared by digging a hole at least the size of a 5-gallon bucket, and discarding any poor soil. To the better soil, add an equal quantity of organic matter, such as Coast of Maine™ compost. One-half cup or so each of ground limestone and an organic fertilizer such as Pro-Gro™ is also beneficial. Blend all the ingredients, dump the amended soil back into the hole, and plant the clematis carefully, taking care not to damage brittle stems when securing to a trellis or other support. Good mulch helps to keep the soil cool and moist. Water well, and maintain it as you would any new planting.

Large-flowered clematis are susceptible to a disease known as Clematis Wilt. This disease remains a mystery to gardeners and scientists alike, for it is unknown if it is caused by a fungus, wounding of the stems caused by windy conditions or mishandling, or a phenomenon of the plant being unable to provide enough water to the stems during stressful weather. In any event, it is characterized by a sudden wilting of the leaves starting at the tips of the stems, and progressing downward. Benomyl™, a commercial fungicide, is commonly used to counteract it. Pruning the stems down to healthy growth will often stop the disease, and new stems will usually arise from buds hidden below ground. Clematis Wilt rarely, if ever, will kill clematis; at most flowering may be disappointingly delayed. Please note that The Mixed Border Nursery will not replace any clematis that has been affected by Clematis Wilt.

Pruning clematis is often confusing to the uninitiated. However, once you understand that you will not kill clematis either by pruning it according to the wrong method, or by not pruning it at all, it becomes much easier. Clematis are grouped according to the way they flower, and this governs how they ought to be pruned. If you are unsure what type you have in your garden, observe its flowering habits for a season, and follow the recommendations that most closely match what you have. Except for Group 1 types, all may be cut back severely in spring with at worst a temporary effect on flowering.


Group 1:
These plants flower early on old stems and generally do not need to be pruned, except to remove dead or damaged stems. If pruning is necessary to control growth, cut stems back after flowering.

Examples:
Clematis alpina and varieties
Clematis macrophylla and varieties

Group 2:
These also flower on old wood, but a later flush of flowers happens in late summer on new growth. In early spring before buds have opened, prune out any dead or weak stems, and cut back remaining stems to a pair of buds. The lower down the stems you cut, the more flowering will be delayed. Cutting the stems by half is a good rule of thumb.

Examples:
Clematis ‘Amethyst Beauty’ C. ‘Arctic Queen’ C. ‘Asao’
C. ‘Bee’s Jubilee’ C. ‘Belle of Woking’ C. ‘Blue Ravine’
C. ‘Carnaby’ C. ‘Crystal Fountain’ C. ‘Diana’s Delight’
C. ‘Duchess of Edinburgh’ C. ‘Elsa Spath’ C. ‘Empress’
C. ‘Franziska Maria’ C. ‘Guernsey Cream’ C. ‘Henryi’
C. ‘Isago’ C. ‘Josephine’ C. lanuginosa ‘Candida’
C. ‘Nelly Moser’ C. ‘Niobe’*** C. ‘Perrin’s Pride’
C. ‘Piliu’ C. ‘Proteus’ C. ‘Rebecca’
C. Rhapsody’*** C. ‘Rosemoor’ C. ‘Silver Moon’
C. ‘Sunset’*** C. ‘Sugar Candy’ C. ‘Veronica’s Choice’
C. ‘Vino’ C. ‘Vyvyan Parnell’ C. ‘Warsaw Nike’

Group 3:
Flowers are produced on new stems each year, so vines can be cut down to a pair of buds near the ground in late winter or early spring.
Examples:
Clematis ‘Alionushka’ C. ‘Arabella’ C. ‘Barbara Harrington’
C. ‘Comtesse de Bouchard’ C. ‘Hagley Hybrid’ C. heracleifolia and hybrids: ‘Mrs. Robert Brydon’
C. integrifolia and hybrids C. ‘Jackmannii Superba’ C. ‘Niobe’***
C. ‘Perle D’Azur’ C. ‘Petite Faucon’ C. recta and varieties
C. ‘Rhapsody’*** C. ‘Roguchi’ C. ‘Rouge Cardinal’
C. tangutica and varieties C. ternifolia (aka C. paniculata) C. texensis ‘Duchess of Albany’, ‘Odoriba’, ‘Pagoda’
C. ‘Ville de Lyon’
C. viticella and hybrids:
C. v. ‘Mrs. Betty Corning’ C. v. ‘Etoile Violette’ C. v. ‘Kermesina’
C. v. ‘Polish Spirit’ C. v. ‘Purpurea Plena Elegans’

***Note: these varieties may be pruned according to either Group 2 or Group 3.
Photos courtesy of Donahues Clematis

Thursday, March 7, 2013

The Best Hardy Plants for New England

Despite the recent snowstorm, our thoughts have been turning to spring which, according to the calendar, arrives on March 20. True spring weather usually takes a while to catch up to the Equinox, so it will be April at least before the ground is soft and dry enough to plant. Still, just before the snow fell, our Snowdrops were in full flower under the beech tree, and the fat budded blooms of Hellebores had already popped through the unfrozen soil. Once the snow melts, they will resume their awakening to flower in early spring, as they always do. Exotic witch hazels (not the late fall-blooming natives) have been in flower since early February, uncoiling their gold, yellow or orange ribbons on warm days, and retracting them at night. Bringing their cut branches into the house persuades them to release their pleasing perfume.

While we can only enjoy (or imagine) these garden delights (Winter flowers? In New Hampshire? Yes, they are possible, and easy) -- it’s not too soon to start planning.

Let’s face it, choosing ornamental plants can be a daunting task for new homeowners and otherwise inexperienced gardeners looking to landscape their yards. For some, a trip to a well-stocked nursery displaying a wide selection of plants can be as confusing as traveling to another country where people speak a different language and whose culture is unfamiliar. Questions of “Is it hardy?” “Will it do well in my yard?” “How much care do I have to give it?” immediately come to mind. It’s no wonder that one often sees the same plants repeated from one house to another, as though each garden was painted from a common palette. Yews and rhododendrons, arborvitae and azaleas, burning bushes and junipers dominate the planted landscapes of New England, because it’s easiest to repeat what is known.

But repetition isn’t always the best way, especially when repeating mistakes. Most of the more familiar plant choices mentioned above grow too large for the average “foundation” planting, and without regular pruning (which is typically more akin to hacking,) will soon cover up first-floor windows and grow over the walkways. And relying on a limited plant palette leads to boringly similar yards.

Better nurseries will have well-trained staff to assist in the process of selecting the right plant for the location, as well as helpful signage and tags. Experienced garden designers are familiar with a much broader range of plants, and know which will not only do best, but also perform and look well with little maintenance, and will arrange them in a distinctive fashion.

Another resource for New England gardeners is to seek out the list of Cary Award-winning plants. The Cary Award program (www.CaryAward.org, a non-profit entity established and administered by the Worcester County Horticultural Society) is bestowed upon hardy woody plants that meet certain criteria: they must be hardy to at least 2 of New England’s Hardiness Zones (but are generally hardy to at least Zone 5 if not colder;) they must offer more than a single season of beauty with an emphasis on having good winter interest; they must have qualities of sustainability (i.e., be easy to grow, not require chemical pest management, and not represent a threat to native flora;) and they must be readily available. Some of them are “problem solving” plants for difficult areas.

This year’s winners of the Cary Award include a low-maintenance rose – Rosa ‘Knock Out’ and the native Yucca filamentosa or Adams Needle, joining 43 trees, shrubs, vines and ground covers that have previously been honored since 1997. A complete list, including information about and photos of individual winners can be found at www.caryaward.org. (Full disclosure: I have been a member of the Cary Award selection committee for many years as one of New Hampshire’s two representatives. Each New England state is similarly represented by professional horticulturists.) We have named future selections up to 2016, with each year’s winners announced at the appropriate time, and are working on plants to nominate and name for 2017 and beyond. Nominations may be made by anybody, and are not limited to those of the committee.

When considering which plants to replace those that may have been damaged in last year’s Halloween snowstorm, or which to choose to enhance your home or garden, be sure to start with Cary Award winners – proven for hardiness, reliability, ease and extended beauty.